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Paddle Georgia 2008

May 27th, 2008

Expect the unexpected should be the motto for this year’s Paddle Georgia. When you weaveFlint River at Sprewell Bluff State Park through the Flint’s bends around Pine Mountain and Sprewell Bluff State Park, you’ll never guess that you are in Southwest Georgia. From the initial launch site east of Woodbury, the journey travels for four days across the Piedmont, meaning four days of rapids and shoals and a trip through what is arguably the most scenic stretch of river in Georgia. From the fall line, the river descends into the high coastal plain where it remains remote and wild. Unlike previous Paddle Georgia’s, this year’s route doesn’t pass through “civilization” until the final day of the trip when we enter Montezuma and Oglethorpe. In fact, it is the first Paddle Georgia that does not travel beneath an interstate highway.

For more information including a virtual tour and registration information, click here.

Speaking for the South

April 16th, 2008

By Dan Langford

Guides to, and commentaries on, speaking Southern get a lot of things wrong. It’s not because they portray our ways of talking as humorous or that they’re prone to exaggeration – we all need the ability to laugh at ourselves, and every good storyteller needs to shade things a bit every now and then to keep them interesting. Instead, these guides and commentaries are flawed in the following areas:
• They are always very general; as if Southerners from Richmond to north Florida, from coastal Carolina to inland Arkansas, sound exactly alike.
• They always seem to gravitate to the speech patterns of the lowest common denominator socially or educationally; and in doing so contribute to the hateful national impression that we are a backward people.
• There is no good way to express in writing the liquidity and cadence of a human voice. A Georgian and a Bostonian both may pronounce “car” as “cah,” but the Georgian will draw the word out over a couple or three seconds, almost making two syllables out of it; while the Bostonian will clip it off in a nanosecond. Capturing this lilt of voice on paper is impossible, which means that none of the guides and commentaries (this one included) can possibly get it exactly right.
• Compounding this difficulty is the process of phonetically spelling the way any of us says things – our usage may be perfectly grammatical, but spelling it as we say it makes it look automatically substandard.

I wouldn’t presume to write about Cajun, or Gullah, or Appalachian or any Southern manner of speech I may have heard only in passing. To do so would be almost as condescending as having a New Yorker discourse on the subject. What I can write about is a very narrow topic – standard English as is and has long been spoken by people of good background and breeding throughout much of Georgia’s piedmont, lower foothills and upper flatlands. If you are not a person of some refinement or education from this area of Georgia, do not know such a person, or are not possessed of some slight academic interest in the subject of how these Georgians speak, then honesty impels me to tell you this commentary is not for you.

One absolute exists in English usage everywhere; namely, that, while one may write beautifully standard and grammatically-correct English, one never speaks nearly so precisely. Local or regional dialect affects speech, and what sounds normal in one place may incorrectly sound substandard in another. Moreover, even one’s normal speech, reasonably precise as it may be, may lapse briefly into poor grammar, slang, or sentence construction so long as the lapse is intentional, is done for emphasis of a matter, and so long as the listener understands full-well the intentionality of such lapse. In other words, those who possess impeccable grammar are at blissful liberty to ignore it whenever they please.

Here’s an example, written as phonetically as I’m able to render it, of what I myself might say (in fact, have said) emphatically to a wayward teenager. “I’m fixin to take yo cah keys away, boy, an’ I ain’t gonna give ‘em back till you show me you’gn behave.” (The only ungrammatical utterance in the sentence is my use of “ain’t,” which my son knows I know better than to use formally, but which adds just the right emphasis to the stern message I’m conveying. The rest is just dialect – good, solid, raised-right usage in the part of the world where I’ve always lived.)

Look at the verb “fixing.” Most of us, in speaking, would drop the “g” and say “fixin,” as in “I’m fixin to carry Mama to get her hair done.” Allow no supercilious Yankee to tell you this usage is ungrammatical. Webster’s says “to fix” means to repair or to prepare. Thus, “I’m fixin the kitchen faucet” is a fine example of repairing, while “I’m fixin to go to the store” is an equally fine example of preparing. Even some Yankees fix supper (well…we’ll get to that in a minute), and they certainly aren’t repairing it when they do. Just don’t mix the usages in the same sentence. “I’m fixin to fix supper” is an abomination which points to a paucity of vocabulary.

Georgians don’t usually “take” people places, we “carry” them. Admittedly, that’s dialect; however, Webster lists it, so don’t laugh when we use “carry” to mean “convey.” We know perfectly well what we’re talking about, and messing with our dialect might cause our murderous tempers to flare. Georgia’s late Senator Herman Talmadge (1913-2002) was a master of communication. Once asked about a trash-talking opponent, the erudite Senator replied, “Waaaalllllllll, I knew his daddy. He, too, was a sumbitch.” In those few words, the Senator managed simultaneously to exhibit a keen comprehension of grammar, a putrid distaste for an adversary he deemed unworthy, and a dialect and delivery that would’ve been at home most anywhere in Georgia.

Yankees don’t really fix supper – they fix dinner. Dinner is the traditional Southern title for the midday meal, unless the viands happen to be light fare like Vienna sausages or sardines and soda crackers, all of which one may call “lunch.” The evening meal is “supper,” and for those of us of the Christian persuasion, the fact that supper was good enough for the sweet Lord Jesus Himself ought to make it good enough for us. “Soda crackers,” for the uninitiated, are called “Saltines” in other parts of the country. That somehow reminds me of “sweet milk,” which is what we used to call regular milk to differentiate it from buttermilk. Both are delicious, suitable for drinking alone or for crumbling hot cornbread into and eating with a spoon. Either one’s so good it’ll make you slap your grandma away from the table. (Don’t ask me why we say that – I suppose it’s to express extreme eagerness to get to something.) The late humorist Lewis Grizzard (1946-1994) wrote that his father, who was from Snellville, Georgia, often said, “Son, thez nothing in th’ world bettuh’n a good, cold glass of buttuhmilk. I’m convinced it’ll heal the sick and raise the dead.” I couldn’t agree more, and might just fix myself a glass directly.

If I’m not fixing to do something (which means “right now”), I might plan on doing it “directly,” which means “in a little while.” It’s old English and is pronounced something like “terrectly,” which, in fact, is how Atlanta’s Margaret Mitchell spelled it in Gone with the Wind. Atlanta, of course, is Georgia’s capital city, and today contains more Yankees than when General Sherman came through in 1864. Don’t listen to how the imports say “Atlanta” – listen to how the natives say it (which, by the way, is good advice no matter where one may go.) It’s something like “At-LAN-na.” No one from these parts pronounces the second “t,” and the jury is out as to whether the first syllable should be “At” or “Et.” It’s really too close to call. A metropolitan county, DeKalb, is pronounced “duh-CAB,” with no voice given the “l.” While the next two places are not in Georgia, they’re major Southern cultural centers, and we should all strive to pronounce them as their respective natives do. “Noo-WAUL-ins” and “CHOLL-ston” – New Orleans and Charleston, garden spots, both. You may have known that already, but an occasional refresher does us all good.

“Already.” Now there’s a word that can grate the Southern ear. Georgians of proper birth and breeding who have not outgrown their raising always — I repeat always — use “already” as an adverb (which you’ll remember from English class is nothing more than a sort of adjective for a verb) meaning prior to something. Some examples of this usage are “I already know that,” “I’ve already done that,” and “By Wednesday, they’ll already be gone.” You get the picture. What Southerners don’t do, not ever if they’re true to their native region, is use “already” as an intensive, as in “Enough, already,” “Shut up, already,” or “Get off my case, already.” We leave such Yankified talking to real Yankees. Such usage isn’t wrong per se, it’s just wrong for us. Who among Southerners wants to sound like a honker from New Jersey?

“Honker” doesn’t rate a high mark on a political correctness scale, probably, but we really don’t mean anything bad by it. It’s just that certain northern voices and accents from the upper Eastern states sound to us more like car horns than human voices. Car horns honk, so we sometimes call people who talk like this “honkers.” It’s just a saying, and Lord knows, we have plenty of those. A smattering of Southern sayings follows, together with a few purely Southern definitions:

• “Like a blind hog stumbling upon an acorn” – an expression and admission of pure luck
• “I’m going to see a man about a dog” – what I’m fixing to do is none of your damn business
• “Like putting perfume on a hog” – a useless attempt to improve something not improvable
• “Somebody better pick cotton” – quit talking and get busy doing something productive
• “I’m going to sell you to the Gypsies” – a light-hearted parental threat
• “Crank the car” – we realize automobile technology has advance beyond the Model T, but we’ve retained this phrase for the starting of our vehicles
• “Vaccinated with a victrola needle” – a light-hearted reference to someone who can’t stop talking
• “Full as a tick” – sated (unclear whether “tick” refers to an insect or a mattress)
• “Drunk as Cooter Brown” – heavily intoxicated (Cooter Brown, by the way, supposedly lived right on the Mason-Dixon Line at the time of the War Between the States. Eligible for draft by, and having family on, both sides of the conflict, he decided to stay drunk for the duration of the War to keep himself ineligible.)
• “Half-lit” – on the verge of intoxication
• “Poor as Job’s turkey” – completely impoverished (reference is from Old Testament Book of Job, naturally)
• “Pissing contest” – a useless argument in which hurtful and argumentative things are said
• “Don’t eat the seed corn” – admonition against living so lavishly that you dip into savings
• “Big for his britches” – aspersion for someone who has shown arrogance in his accomplishments or stated goals
• “Outgrown his raising” – similar to “big for his britches,” but has more to do with one who is ashamed of his background
• “Fourteen-carat son-of-a-bitch with spare parts” – a mean and nasty male
• “The Late Unpleasantness” – the War Between the States
• “The War” – the War Between the States
• “The War of Northern Aggression” – the War Between the States
• “The War Between the States” – our name for what folks from other parts of the country call “The Civil War”
• “Damnyankee” – a northerner who moves here who doesn’t have sense enough to know that we don’t care how things were done back home, or who is condescending toward us and our Southern ways
• “Dressing” – a mixture generally consisting of crumbled cornbread and biscuit, onion, celery seed, sage, and chicken or turkey broth which is baked in a pan (never inside a fowl), cut into squares, and served alongside the fowl, preferably with giblet gravy.
• “Stuffing” – something inside a pillow, cushion, mattress, beanbag, etc.
• “Soda” – white powder (sodium bicarbonate) often used in baking
• “Pop” – a nickname occasionally used in the South for a father or a grandfather
• “Soft drink” – a non-alcoholic beverage that is usually carbonated (the terms “coke” or “co-cola” are often used generically for such beverages, as well. People used to come into my grandaddy’s store and pull orange or grape co-colas out of the drink box.)
• “Sack” – something in which groceries are bagged at the supermarket
• “Get tickled” – begin laughing
• “Tempus sho’ do fugit” – a way of remarking upon the swift passage of time with levity

On that note I will concede that I have used a bunch of your “tempus,” and state my regret in having to “fugit” away soon. [And Yankees think we’re not an intellectual people! See how well we use Latin? A prayer borrowed from our mediæval British ancestors which has been said for nearly a century and a half in the South might be more convincing: A furore Normannorem libera nos, Domine! It means, “From the fury of the north men deliver us, O Lord!”]

Seriously though, educated Southern English as it is spoken through much of Georgia is a beautiful, lilting, melodious language. It’s as different from “redneck” English as British Cockney is from BBC English. The influences of television and northerners moving to our state have somewhat eroded its distinctiveness over the last generation, but it still manages to show a rather awesome resistance to change. People from other parts of the nation love to hear Southerners speak, and if we can all keep some humor about us, we can have a good time with our differences in speaking.

The late Congressman Robert Stephens (1913-2003) from Athens (who had grown up in Atlanta) was a good example of what I mean. A jolly little elf of a man with a brilliant mind and great personality, he served for many years in the U.S. House of Representatives. One day a House Committee upon which he served was interviewing a man named Moorhead. Congressman Stephens, in his upper-class drawl, kept referring to the witness as “Mistuh Mōhead.” A Midwestern congressman got tickled at this pronunciation, and posed a question intending to share his levity with the assembly: “Does the gentleman from Georgia not realize that the witness’s name, Moorhead, contains the letter ‘r’?”

In mock indignation, Congressman Stephens replied in his slowest, most deliberate tone, “Does the gennelmun from _____ think the gennelmun from Jawja a fool? Of cōse Ah reelize th’ name Mōhead contains an ‘ah’! If it didn, it’d be pronounced ‘Moo-head’, an’ yonduh witness sho’ dudn look lak a cow t’ me!” The room broke up.

May we glory in differences of the spoken word, and may any fun we poke at each other’s ways of speaking be just that — good-natured fun.

Dan Langford has not strayed far from his deep Georgia roots. He is the seventh generation of his family to live on the same farm in Brooks, Georgia, a town named for one of his ancestors. He is the author of the 2003 book History of Brooks, Georgia, and is co-owner and executive editor of 20 South Magazine.

Exploring Georgia by Bike

April 9th, 2008

Whether you’re a hard-core bicyclist or a novice, you’ll enjoy Jim Qualls’ bicycle explorations of Georgia. Look for them in Brown’s Guide Blogs in the “Bicycle Trails” category.

A realtor by profession, Jim has been touring Georgia by bicycle ever since hebiking-jq-klein-rgb.jpg was a boy growing up on the last farm standing in rapidly developing Roswell, Georgia. He and his wife Janna, along with daughters Ellen (19) and Betsy (15), now live in Peachtree City in a house with a two-and-a-half car garage. A Honda occupies one side of the garage, the obligatory Peachtree City golf cart the one-half. The rest of the space is taken up by five bikes and a mint condition 1963 red Massey-Ferguson MF35 tractor from his father’s Roswell farm.

Jim’s trails will be divided between road tours through Georgia’s rural and urban landscape and trail bike routes that get you off the pavement and onto some of the backcountry trails from the mountains to the coast.

Try some of Jim’s trails and send him your comments. Let us know if you have a favorite bike trail that you’d like to see posted on the website to share with others.

Stonewall Falls Trail

April 9th, 2008

By Jim Qualls

Previously toasted by Outside Magazine as one of the top rides in the southeast, Stonewall Falls Trail continually gets reviewed as a rider’s favorite. Recently expanded to offer about 11 miles, this trail is a classic mix of challenging climbs, beautiful remote scenery, wildlife, some technical sections, and 4 creek crossings. Ratings always depend on the riders involved: Thisbiking-jq-sugarrbg.jpg usually gets rated moderate to difficult.

To The Trailhead
From Tallulah Gorge and Tallulah Falls on US Highway 441, go 2 miles north to left on Old Highway 441. Follow Old Highway 441 as it winds through the communities of Joy, Lakemont, and Wiley approximately 5.3 miles. Watch for the left turn onto gravel Forest Service Road 20—there is a sign for Stonewall Falls Trail and a small sign that simply says 20. Proceed up the gravel road just over a mile, stay to the right and park near the gate. Be prepared to pay $2 parking fee.

The Ride
Immediately a favorite since the first time I rode it, local mountain bikers are owed a debt of gratitude for what they have done. The loop is usually ridden counterclockwise: So, from the parking area and past the gate, its only a couple hundred yards on doubletrack to the left turn onto the new singletrack trail.

My first time riding Stonewall Falls Trail several years ago was on a cold February day—36 degrees for the high temperature. Back then you ground up winding gravel road for the first 3 miles until “above vulture level”, where you could look down on the birds and speculate whether they were staying close to keep an eye on you.

On that cold first time ride, and on repeat rides since, we found the trail offered all of the elements we wished for classic mountain biking. There’s some mud, narrow handlebar-wide stretches through the trees, mud, roots, rocks, switchback, open ridges through hardwood forests, tunneling stretches through dense rhododendron thickets, rocky technical descents, and loads of peace and quiet. Always hoping to see wildlife, I remember this was the first and only time I’ve ever seen ruffed grouse. We flushed up a couple over on the back side of the loop. The last mile offers 4 creek crossings, which my friends didn’t know about as we rode it that first cold winter day—most people find them more enjoyable on summer days. And there’s the namesake Stonewall Falls at the end of the ride: For some reason, my buddies didn’t want to linger at the falls with wet feet on that first cold ride, but most times you’ll want to take in the beauty of the falls, take some photos, maybe a dip in the pool at the base of the falls, and let the more pedestrian visitors you may see there in on a little of the fun you’ve had while riding this great trail.

You’ll Get Hungry—And Need A Place To Stay
Riders on strict, highly-calculated, Lance Armstrong-type diets will have their meals pre-planned and pre-measured. I, too, am gradually ratcheting up the strictness of my own diet. But let me recommend two of my favorite restaurants for great recovery meals after your rides (and for breakfast the next day), both of them on north on US 441 in Dillard, Georgia.

Friends from the days of my youth, Billy & Charlene Johnson offer wonderful food and desserts at Johnson’s Cupboard Café, 7388 Highway 441 North, in Dillard. I recommend the chicken pot pie and the apple pie a la mode. They also run White Hall Inn a very nice bed & breakfast across the road (which also features the Café). Tell the Johnsons I sent you.

Travelers to the region from all over the world also know about The Dillard House. Famous for its endless family style meals, the Dillard House offers a great view across the valley in Rabun Gap, as well as hotel accommodations, pool, trail rides on horses, and even a small petting zoo.

And That’s Not All
I recommend something cool to drink from Hillside Orchard Farms, just a mile or so south of the turn onto Forest Road 20 on Old Highway 441. They have every cider and jelly imaginable, plus much more—my favorites are the muscadine and scuppernong ciders and the moonshine jelly.

Downtown Clayton, north of Stonewall Falls Trail on Highway 441 offers a growing variety of accommodations, dining, shopping, and cultural events. Visit Rabun County’s website for loads of information.

And a couple of the many beautiful spots in Rabun County to visit while you’re there: Minnehaha Falls is oft-regarded as the most beautiful waterfall in Georgia. Also, Black Rock Mountain State Park in Mountain City is the highest elevation state park in Georgia, on the Eastern Continental Divide.

Other Rides Reach Out to Me

April 9th, 2008

By Jim Qualls

We have many miles of great riding in Georgia, and BrownsGuides.com is offering an interesting forum to let more people know about it.

I’ve been riding bikes in Georgia most of my life, since way back in the late 1960’s on my banana-seated kid bike. Growing up outside of Roswell when it was much more rural, I enjoyed the freedom that bike gave me to roamjq-2-rbg.jpg around. Several years before the invention of the mountain bike, I rolled down dusty dirt farm roads, across fields and pastures, and through the woods to ever new adventures. Like the state song by Ray Charles, “Georgia” does “reach out to me”, calling again and again with another road to go down, another trail curving temptingly out of sight. Photo: Jim Qualls

Sometimes I ride “because its there”, other times because I’ve been there and loved it before. And I ride to keep fit.

I usually ride my road bike with friends and on organized group rides—there is safety in numbers, and the conversation is good. But my mountain bike is my personal favorite, maybe because of the type of riding I enjoyed doing as a boy, but also due to the type I most prefer now. Riding off-road proves more relaxing to me because I don’t have to worry as much about traffic—and I like where it takes me. No place on earth is better to me than a beautiful stretch of “singletrack” in the north Georgia mountains, alongside a clear, cascading stream, through the hemlocks and the rhododendrons. But I do also enjoy the road rides. It’s the places, the people I ride with, and even other joys that can be hard to describe. And I love that good-looking blue Klein road bike of mine: Nothing better than watching the sun glint off of its carefully waxed paint as I pedal down another road.

Home turf is Peachtree City, Georgia, and I will gladly share this unique place. We have over 90 miles of recreation paths here, in addition to our streets. There’s plenty to tell about in the counties closest to my home—Fayette, Coweta, Meriwether and southern Fulton.

I have ridden in many places in Georgia. On the road bike, I recently rode with a group from Peachtree City to the state capitol in Atlanta and back (76 miles) for the the 2008 Georgia Rides To The Capitol rally. Nearly 2000 riders, mayors, and other state leaders gathered to focus on bike-friendly roads, alternative transportation options, and a brighter future for us all.

You may have heard of the highly-acclaimed Bike Ride Across Georgia (BRAG)–I’ve ridden a day or so of it before: The first time was from Columbus to Thomaston, 63 miles, half of it in the rain. My longest ride so far, 115 miles from Peachtree City to Pine Mountain and Callaway Gardens to Warm Springs and back, was another great experience. There’s the Silver Comet rail trail that I have enjoyed for several years now, from the west side of Atlanta all the way to the Alabama line. And there’s what local cycling guru Steve Shackleford (of Bicycles Unlimited) bills as “The Funnest Ride In Georgia”, in the northeast counties of Habersham and Rabun. Oh, boy! The list goes on and on.

The mountain bike has taken me along countless miles of dirt roads, past the cow pastures that always get my attention, and even on the old Indian route called the McIntosh Trail. A repeat favorite is Dauset Trails near Jackson, with about 1500 acres of great middle Georgia beauty, alongside rocky streams and fern-covered coves. On the western border in Heard County are the privately-owned trails called Windridge Farm. On the coast, I’ve ridden all up and down St. Simons Island, from the lighthouse to Fort Frederica. I’ve even done a little riding in the edge of the surf of the Atlantic Ocean (not good for your bike).

My clear favorites are those mountain trails and roads. Stonewall Falls Trail in Rabun County, the Unicoi State Park trails and Smithgall Woods roads in White County are standouts. I’ll sometime tell about a great day of riding on the trails in Fort Mountain State Park, which ended with me having a life-changing crash on the paved road on our way back.

So much to tell about, and to hear about from others, too—we’ll do it right here on BrownsGuides.com.