Tea cakes
Monday, February 15th, 2010
This sounds like a topic for ladies only, but it truly isn’t. Tea cakes were a staple of cookie jars around Brooks in my youth, but seem to have ‘gone with the wind’ in recent years. I never hear about them any more. So I went next door to my 91-year-old great aunt, who may have been the best tea cake baker in Middle Georgia history, and got her time-tested recipe to share. Tea cakes are best with no other sweets; their taste is subtle and easily overpowered by more assertive flavors. Still, there are few things this side of Heaven better than a good tea cake, and I thought I’d share this bit of Southern heritage, together with a story about tea cakes from a hundred twenty years ago. First, the recipe, which I tried and found as delicious as I remember tea cakes being:
Ruth Crawford’s Tea Cakes
1 egg, 1 cup sugar, 1 stick of margarine or butter (softened), 2 cups self-rising flour, 1 tsp vanilla
Mix ingredients together in a large bowl, kneading with your hands. Mixture will resemble small crumbs. Gather a palm-full and squeeze together, kneading between your hands. Place on a lightly floured surface and flatten as well as you can. Roll gently with a floured rolling pin, to no more than 1/4″ thickness. Can cut no more than two tea cakes at a time. Entire bowl-full should make approximately 2 dozen tea cakes.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook tea cakes until edges begin to brown slightly. May or may not have slight browining on top of tea cakes. Do not overcook. Remove from oven and transfer immediately to a cool pan. Enjoy this subtle but delicious taste from Brooks, GA, a taste you won’t begin to realize until after the first mouthful.
Now for the story: My great-grandmother, Mattie Henderson Crawford (1882-1972), lived her entire life in Brooks, dying when I was almost ten. One day when she was a girl, her mother, a great visitor of the sick and shut-in in what was then called Brooks Station, carried little Mattie with her to go see a poor old woman in town. Mattie’s mother told her she was not to ask for anything to eat at the old lady’s house.
Mattie was a very naughty little girl, and asked anyway. The old woman gave her a cold biscuit. Mustering whatever disdain a five-year-old Southern belle-in-training could muster, young Mattie took one look at the biscuit, walked to the open door, and threw it out to the yard dogs. She turned on her high-button shoe and said, “Shah! If I’d been at home, I’d've had a tea cake!”
I’m sure Mattie was spanked for that display of petulance, but she was right about one thing: not much will take the place of a tea cake. And knowing this story happened about 1887 or 1888 means that the tea cake recipe above (which comes from Mattie’s youngest daughter-in-law) has a long history behind it.