By SUZANNE WELANDER
The Chattahoochee River, with its headwaters in the Blue Ridge Mountains 200 feet from the Appalachian Trail, flows 430 miles through Georgia. This paddling guide covers 253 of those miles from Low Gap in Northeast Georgia to Lake Seminole in the southwest corner of the state.
“The lore of the South could not survive without rivers any better than
the human body could survive without blood,” writes Marc Reisner in
Cadillac Desert. Every river has its stories, and the Chattahoochee’s could
fill volumes. It is Georgia’s longest river and the only one spanning all
three of its geological regions. Sparkling headwaters fall from the
mountains, are temporarily stilled in Lake Lanier, emerge to lope
across the Piedmont hills and through Atlanta, and upon reaching
Columbus, turn south to spill through successive dams throughout the
Coastal Plain, rarely flowing freely. Millions depend on the river -
Atlanta and Columbus drink it - yet the river’s waters are polluted
from human contact, particularly in and downstream of Atlanta. As
Atlanta modernizes its sewer system and Columbus talks of freeing the
drowned Coweta Falls, the final chapter has yet to be written.
A paddling guide to the Chattahoochee River in five sections, the last four of which may be divided into shorter segments.
SECTION I: Low Gap Creek to GA Hwy 75 above Robertstown (the Upper Chattahoochee) 4.2 miles.
SECTION II: Robertstown to Lake Lanier (Upper Hooch) 32.3. miles
SECTION III: Buford Dam to Sweetwater Creek (Metro Hooch) 56.2 miles
SECTION IV: Sweetwater Creek to Columbus 59.5 miles
SECTION V: Columbus to Lake Seminole 93.1 miles.
A list of topographical and county maps is included at the end of the guide.
SECTION I: LOW GAP CREEK TO GA HWY 75 ABOVE ROBERTSTOWN
SUMMARY: Class: III-IV; Length: 4.2 miles; Time: 3-to-4 hours; Gauge: none; Level: NA; Gradient: 57 feet per mile, 2 miles at 85 feet per mile; Scenery: A. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: The river is extremely small in this section, but
the scenery and gradient combine to make a run that borders on
spectacular - on the rare occasion of the right water level. The
river drops extremely fast through a rocky and deadfall-ridden
constricted channel bordered by hemlock, mountain laurel, and
rhododendron. There are many sections barely wide enough for a
boat to pass through and occasional blind turns and drops with
little margin for error. Scout as much of the river as possible from
the road before putting in, and scout all major drops while on
the water. This seldom-traveled run is for expert boaters only.
The recommended put-in is where the Chattahoochee River
Road (FS 52) crosses Low Gap Creek, which is sizeable enough
to provide passage to the river when it’s running. Either carry
down the path along the left side of the creek or run the creek
down to its confluence with the Chattahoochee. Shortly downstream, the access road rejoins the river. There are multiple
opportunities to access the river or to camp in the remaining
miles down to the valley. The river is mostly Class II-III below
Low Gap Creek and is less choked by trees than in the sections
above. The uppermost access is on FS 44, but putting in here is
problematic. The wooded upper section often forces boaters to
return upstream rather than allowing them to continue down
stream. If it is clear, there are four rapids in the first 2 miles of
this section that approach the limits of navigability. Portage here
is harrowing, involving slick, steep rocks and rhododendron
thickets. Another option is to put-in between the highest access
point and Low Gap Creek by parking near the gated Forest Service road you encounter on FS 52 after crossing Jasus Creek and
sliding down the ridge to the river (bearing north to the river
instead of south into the gully). Putting in here adds 1.4 miles of
Class II-III water to the run.
SHUTTLE: From Helen, the take-out is north of town on GA 75
before the highway veers away from the river at Spoilcane Creek.
To get to the put-in, take GA 75 back toward Helen. Before
town, turn right onto GA 75 (Alt.) and take the immediate right
onto Chattahoochee River Road on the other side of the river.
Follow this road until reaching the Forest Service campground at
Low Gap Creek.
GAUGE: There is no gauge for this section. Flow flushes
through quickly and the lower river must be near or approaching
flood stage in order to find sufficient flow at the headwaters.
Scout the level from the road to determine feasibility.
SECTION II: ROBERTSTOWN TO LAKE LANIER (UPPER HOOCH)
SUMMARY: Class: I-II with some III; Length: 32.3 miles; Time: up to 3 days; Gauge: web; Level: 800 cfs; Gradient: 14 feet per mile; Scenery: A-B. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Upon reaching the valley floor, the river calms
into steady Class I riffles and remains that way through
Alpinized Helen. Other than boisterous summer tubing traffic,
there are no immediate obstacles except for one low wooden
bridge near Robertstown that may present problems at higher
levels. Chattahoochee Street in Helen is the last opportunity
to take-out before encountering a dam that cannot be portaged
at Nora Mill in Nacoochee.
Below the mill, the river takes a significant bend and passes
beneath GA 75 twice. After the second crossing, the river
flows adjacent to the Nacoochee American Indian Mound. River
access is possible at this second crossing on the southeast corner
of the bridge, though traffic on the road is fast and heavy, especially on weekends. The Nacoochee Valley offers a pleasant, pastoral float mostly through open farmland with some wooded
areas. There are often downed trees, however, that can cause
problems. The state has recently purchased the Nacoochee
mound and definitely does not allow public digging for artifacts.
Please respect these Native American ancestral lands.
From the Sautee Creek junction down to GA 255 lies one
of the longest undisturbed stretches of the river. The terrain is
heavily forested, with large white pines and frequent rock out-croppings. Evidence of human intrusion is less obvious than ear
lier, and a pleasant illusion of isolation settles in. This is a good
section for camping. Rapids are fairly frequent but never go
beyond a mild Class II category. River access is available at the
GA 17 bridge over Sautee Creek, and is best on the bridge’s
southwest corner. It is a short float to the main stream of the
Chattahoochee; be ready to portage around downed trees, which
can easily span the creek.
Rapids become more challenging below GA 255. This segment begins with several Class I rapids and smooth pools. Then
the river enters a long, slow area nicknamed the Dead Sea
because its stillness offers a marked contrast to the rapids above
and below. Large trees on either side form a cool green tunnel of
vegetation that occasionally opens into rolling pastured vistas.
The Dead Sea is the first warning sign that Smith Island rapid is
near; the next indicator is a large, gently sloping granite face on
the right. This rapid should be scouted by first timers or by any
one running the river at extreme water levels. Do not scout from
the Island, which is private. The left side of the island is the best
route. It is a Class II rapid at almost any water level, and at high
water it becomes a solid Class III. Enter the rapid from the left
side of the main stream at the top of the island, then gradually
work back to the right side (left bank of the island) for the final
plunging chute. This chute ends in a fairly deep pool next to a
large rock face. Recover on the island if necessary.
Whitewater buffs will find the 4 miles starting at the GA 115
bridge the Chattahoochee’s most exciting. Rapids are frequent, lengthy, and challenging enough to keep paddlers occupied.
The entrance to Buck Shoals, the first rapid of note, is marked by
an island not far from the put-in. One-quarter mile of fairly continuous Class II water awaits. Buck Shoals has eaten experienced
decked boaters at extremely high water levels, when waves may
exceed 4 feet in height. At low-to-average water levels, one encounters a more technical run. The next named rapid is Three Ledges.
A large granite outcropping on the right indicates the imminence
of this drop. Many consider this to be the most fun or challenging
series of rapids of this section. The traditional route is to run just to
the left of the flat protruding rock at the first ledge, moving to the
center for the second and third ledges. The hole at the base of this
rapid is a great place to play. The next long pool, with granite outcroppings on the right, denotes the approach to Horseshoe Rapid
(Class II+). A long, low ledge of rocks forces the river to hook
around them, thus giving Horseshoe its name. Enter on the left,
and be ready to cut hard back to the right. Just below Horseshoe
the Soque River enters, followed shortly by a small creek falls; the
Duncan Bridge Road take-out is ahead.
The 9-mile section below Duncan Bridge Road offers a few
Class I-II rapids similar in character to those above the bridge;
and the scenery remains quite good. This section encompasses
the entry of Mossy Creek on river right - a potential steep creek
run into the Chattahoochee. The state owns a parcel of land at
the mouth of the creek. Some good play spots are found in the
last mile above Mud Creek at high levels. Paddling up Mud
Creek to the bridge is the best takeout before the current stops
in the backwaters of Lake Lanier. Once in the backwaters, forward progress is hard work.
SHUTTLE: The take-out for the GA 115 to Duncan Bridge run
is reached by going north on 1-985, which turns into GA 365, turning left onto GA 384, Duncan Bridge Road, and following
it to the far side of the river before turning right into the outfitters parking lot. There is a small fee for parking here: paddlers
typically use the shuttle service to GA 115 since the deluxe put-in at the bridge is on land owned by the outfitter. There is no
public parking there. The GA 255 access is on the river-left,
or Habersham County, side of the river only. Do not disturb
the property owner on the river-right side. Parking here and
upstream at the Sautee Creek put-in is tight; shuttle service is
available to these points.
GAUGE: There is a gauge in the river 100-200 yards upstream
of the GA 115 Bridge. It is affixed to an old bridge piling located
upstream of a small shoal on river left. Using this gauge, the recommended levels for this section are a scrapey minimum of 0.8
and a maximum of 6.0. The river has been run at levels higher
than 6 feet by expert boaters. Levels are also easily acquired on
line from the USGS Web site by referencing the gauge near Cornelia. The gauge is located at Duncan Bridge Road, below the
confluence with the Soque River; readings may not correlate
with flows originating from the upper sections of the Chattahoochee. Keeping this in mind, the minimum for this section is
800-900 cfs. The local outfitter can provide information on levels over the phone.
SECTION III: BUFORD DAM TO SWEETWATER CREEK (METRO HOOCH)
SUMMARY: Class: I-II; Length: 56.2 miles; Time: up to 6 days; Gauge: web; Level: 900 cfs; Gradient: less 3 feet per mile, with some 11 feet per mile rapids; Scenery: B-D. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: The Chattahoochee through the Piedmont
from Buford Dam to Franklin (industrial Atlanta excepted), is
pleasant paddling. Modest bluffs and some exposed rock combine with a young forest dominated by pignut hickory, river
birch, tulip poplar, sassafras, water oak, black walnut, box elder,
and loblolly pine that approaches and retreats from the river’s
edge. Undergrowth consists of honeysuckle, various asters,
Christmas fern, trumpet creeper, and river cane. Throughout
metropolitan Atlanta, the Chattahoochee National Recreation
Area protects a patchwork of nearly 10,000 acres of metropolitan
riverside land.
Starting at the public park below Buford Dam, the river
flows between clay banks of 6-10 feet as it winds through the
Piedmont en route to Atlanta. Tree-lined and pleasant, the river
averages 120 feet in width and flows with a moderate current.
Water is clear with a greenish cast in this stretch during most of the year. Small ripples and occasional tiny shoals keep the paddling interesting.
Two miles below GA 141 at Medlock Bridge Road are
the backwaters of Morgan Falls Dam. Though the water is slack
for the next 16 miles, from this point to the dam, passage
through this wealthy suburban residential area is nonetheless
interesting because some of Atlanta’s finest residential architecture is nestled among the hills and bluffs that border the river.
Downstream of the Morgan Falls Dam the parade of homes continues for about 4 more miles.
The short and popular whitewater section known as the
”Metro Hooch” begins at the Powers Island put-in above 1-285. Half a mile below the 1-285 crossing, two stairstep shoals of
low Class II difficulty keep paddlers awake. With the exception
of the apartment complexes found by the floodplain at the
beginning of this run, the scenery offers a refreshing and surprising respite from the nearby asphalt and engines. Rocky bluffs
and dense forest rise from the river, creating a natural oasis that
recalls the river’s native roots. Shoals arrive at equal intervals throughout the run. The last bend introduces first the sounds,
then the sights of the city as the 1-75 bridge comes into view. The
common take-out for this section at the Paces Mill Recreation
Area arrives quickly after passing beneath the bridge.
Continuing downstream, small shoals persist until 1.5 miles
below Paces Ferry Road, where there are two partial dams. Both
can be run without danger. A clear downstream V marks the
route through the first, while the second should be run on the far
right. Just upstream of Nancy Creek’s entry on the left is a park
and play spot known as the Wave. Access this spot via Atlanta
Road, paddling upstream from the Nancy Creek confluence.
Water quality worsens as the river progresses through Atlanta. Below the Wave, the Chattahoochee is bordered by sewage treatment facilities and a congested industrial corridor complete with
factories, junkyards, and freight yards. Of all sections, this is the
most abused, and it smells of it.
SHUTTLE: The Metro Hooch segment is nestled between a web
of roads and interstates that offer easy access no matter which
direction you come from. The take-out is at the West
Palisades/Paces Mill Recreation Area located on US 41 south of I-285 on the north side of the river. To get to the put-in from there,
take US 41 north and turn right at Cumberland Boulevard. Cross
over 1-75 and turn right onto Akers Mill Road. Turn left at the
first opportunity to cross under 1-285, and then take an immediate
right onto the access road on the other side. The entrance to the Cochran Shoals/Powers Island Recreation Area is on the left after
crossing the river. Put-in at the small channel between the island
and the shore, or at the larger main channel.
GAUGE: Flows on this section are controlled by releases from
Buford Dam. Using the USGS gauge for the Chattahoochee at
Atlanta, 1,500 cfs makes the rapids in the Metro Hooch section
interesting; from 2500-5000 cfs, they are partially to completely
washed out. The minimum is 850 cfs. Higher flows carry more
pollution: be sure you have the skills necessary to avoid a swim or roll.
SECTION IV: SWEETWATER CREEK TO COLUMBUS
SUMMARY: Class: I with some III; Length: 59.5 miles; Time: up to 6 days; Gauge: web; Level: unknown; Gradient: less than 2 feet per mile; Scenery: B-. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Downstream of Atlanta, agricultural tableland
and forest alternately cradle the stream. The river’s course tends
toward long, straight sections followed by broad, looping bends.
Shoals are intermittent and usually consist of small ledges that
are straightforward and rarely exceed Class 1+ in difficulty. An
exception is Bush Head Shoals, a legitimate Class II section
about 3 miles upstream of Franklin in Heard County. The best
route here is to the right around the large island at the top of the
shoals, moving to the middle of the stream at the downstream
base of the island to run the lower shoals. Daniel Shoals, farther
downstream, is borderline Class II and should present no difficulty. Below Daniel Shoals are the city of Franklin and West
Point Lake.
Released at West Point Dam, the Chattahoochee moves from
one impoundment to another all the way to Columbus, where
four dams within a 3-mile section of river provide a disappointing finale for this dam and power plant infested section of the
Chattahoochee. Slack water, dull scenery, and an abundance of
portages combine to make a paddle trip suitable only for bad
dreams. Between Franklin and Columbus (where the river passes
from dam to dam) the riverbanks diminish in height marking the
river’s transition from the Piedmont to the Coastal Plain.
In downtown Columbus below the 13th Street Bridge, a
Class II-III shoal downstream of the Eagle and Phenix Dam
forms a park-and-play spot. When there is water flowing over
the dam, sizable surfing waves, holes, and wave trains are to be
found. The dam has been purchased by a private party with
intention of breaching it (in addition to the next dam
upstream), liberating Coweta Falls from where it sits beneath
the pool. Photo: The Eagle and Phenix Dam on the Chattahoochee in downtown Columbus. The dam was built in 1868 to power then now defunct Eagle and Phenix textile mill. The dam is located just south of the 13th Street Bridge which connects Columbus to Phinix City, Alabama. The dam produces a 45-acre portion of the river reservoir that extends approximately 1 mile upstream. The dam is now owned by the City of Columbus, and environmental studies are underway to breach the dam, along with City Mills Dam to create an urban whitewater paddling zone along the river.
SHUTTLE: To reach the highest access point for this section at
Sweetwater Creek, take Exit 44 from 1-20 west of Atlanta, turn
ing south onto GA 6. Continue to a right-hand turn onto
Riverside Parkway; access is ahead at the bridge over the creek.
Lower access points are most easily reached from GA 166, GA
5, or US 27.
GAUGE: The section above West Point Lake is runnable if
Buford Dam is releasing water. The online USGS gauge for the
Columbus park-and-play spot is at US 280; levels, controlled by
Bartlett’s Ferry Dam, vary throughout most days. Minimum and
maximum levels on this gauge are unknown; check feasibility
visually if you live in the area. The LaGrange Fisheries Office at
(706) 845-4180 can provide additional information on floating
or fishing this section.
SECTION V: COLUMBUS TO LAKE SEMINOLE
SUMMARY: Class: I; Length: 93.1 miles; Time: up to 2 weeks; Gauge: web; Level: NA; Gradient: less than 1 foot per mile; Scenery: C. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Flowing south from Columbus in Muscogee
County, the Chattahoochee River is impounded frequently as it
winds through a farming plateau sprinkled with industry. Its
banks average 4-8 feet high and are tree-lined. Towboats and
other industrial traffic move up and down the 300-foot-wide
stream. From Columbus the Chattahoochee moves down to the
Walter F. George Reservoir and from there to Lake Seminole,
where it meets the Flint to form the Apalachicola River. The level
of difficulty from Columbus to Lake Seminole is Class I; power
boat traffic is the primary hazard to navigation.
SHUTTLE: See map. GA 39 parallels the east side of the upper
portion of the river in this section; most access points are easily
reached from it. Below Blakely, use GA 62, GA 370, US 84, and
GA 9 I in addition to GA 39.
GAUGE: Runnable all year. For more information, call the
Albany Fisheries Office at (229) 430-4256.
MAPS: Jacks Gap, Cowrock, Helen, Leaf, Clarkesville, Lula,
Buford Dam, Suwannee, Duluth, Norcross, Chamblee, Roswell,
Mountain Park, Sandy Springs, Northwest Atlanta, Mableton,
Ben Hill, Campbellton, Palmetto, Rico, Newnan North,
Whitesburg, Lowell, Franklin, Hill Crest, Columbus, Fort
Mitchell, Fort Benning, Union, Omaha, Twin Springs, George-
town, Eufaula North, Eufaula South, Ft. Gaines Northeast, Ft.
Gaines Northwest, Ft. Gaines, Columbia Northeast, Columbia,
Gordon, Saffold, Bascom, Steam Mill, Fairchild, Sneads
(USGS); White, Habersham, Hall, Forsyth, Gwinnett, Fulton,
Cobb, Douglas, Carroll, Coweta, Heard, Muscogee, Chattahoochee, Stewart, Clay, Early, Seminole (County)
Links:
A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides
to over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website.