By SUZANNE WELANDER

This is a paddling guide to a trip on the Suwannee River, including a portion of the Okefenokee Swamp, in extreme Southwest Georgia, with a total distance of 45.5 miles. The trip may be divided into shorter sections by selecting alternate put-in and take-out points. See map.

Deep in the Okefenokee Swamp, the Suwannee is born at the confluence of the East and Middle Forks of the Suwannee at the northern end of Billys Lake.

Thanks to Stephen Foster, there are few streams in American folklore and culture better known than the Suwannee. The mere mention of its name stirs fanciful visions of stately moss-draped cypress and sultry Southern days. No more beautiful than several dozen other southern Georgia rivers, the Suwannee is, nevertheless, a living legend in the most literal sense, and therefore something special. The river originates deep in the bowels of the Okefenokee Swamp and winds its way southeast, escaping into Florida and its terminus at the Gulf of Mexico.

DESCRIPTION: Only a small portion of the Suwannee flows within the state of its birth, a fact made much of by Florida tourism promoters. This section, however, is unique among all stretches of the river by virtue of the almost mystical aura conferred by the Okefenokee Swamp.

Deep in the middle of the swamp, the Suwannee is born at the confluence of the East and Middle Forks of the Suwannee at the northern end of Billys Lake. Access is available at the nearby Stephen Foster (who else?) State Park. You will quickly find, however, that paddling within Okefenokee is heavily regulated (see the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge profile). If you proceed downstream and out of the swamp, you will have to cross the sill, a man-made levee constructed to stabilize the depth of water in the swamp. The portage is short and easy, but alas, a permit is required. If this sounds like the heavy hand of bureaucracy, remember that this regulation and several dozen more like it (like carrying all human waste out of the swamp), have preserved the pristine integrity of one of America’s irreplaceable natural wonders.

Once across the sill, the Suwannee settles into shallow, white, sandy clay banks and flows southward through a watery floodplain forested with pond cypress, swamp black gum, sweet bay, swamp cyrilla, slash pine, magnolia and palmetto. Since animals and birds do not need permits to cross the sill, the incredibly diverse fauna found in the Okefenokee can also be found along the upper Suwannee.

The water color is dark red, stained by tannic acid from decaying vegetation, and the current is slow. Below the sill to the GA 94 bridge crossing at Fargo, the river flows through several large midstream stands of cypress and gum, which at higher water require some heads-up navigation and present a nice opportunity to get lost in the surrounding inundated lowlands. While the flow of the main current is usually easy to follow, there are times when map, compass, and a little swamp luck are helpful. Access between the state park and Fargo is almost nonexistent, except at a private campground off of GA 177 where camping and launching are available for a small fee. The state has purchased 350 acres of land on the river at Fargo; in the future there may be more access available.

Below Fargo the Suwannee remains isolated in pristine, exotic wilderness and flows languidly along a shady, twisting course of moss-draped cypress. The first access point below Fargo is CR 6, just over the state line. If you continue, you will notice that the banks are higher and more well-defined, and that numerous feeder streams enter the Suwannee. Farther downstream, Florida’s largest rapid, Big Shoals, and the Stephen Foster (who else?) Memorial await you.

The Suwannee’s current is slow to moderate. Dangers to navigation are confined to the standard deadfalls in the stream’s adolescent reaches and locals drinking at the GA 94 bridge. Since campsites are rare below access point B, paddlers should launch with sufficient daylight remaining to make Fargo before dark.

SHUTTLE (See map): Out of Fargo, take US 441 south into Florida. Turn right onto CR 6 and follow it to the river. Return to US 441 north for put-in access at its crossing in Fargo or continue north on GA 177 to the fish camp, where camping and launching are available for a fee, or to the highest access point deep in the swamp at Stephen Foster State Park.

GAUGE: Levels for gauges at and above Fargo are available on the USGS Web site:

Suwannee River above Fargo, GA

Suwannee River at US 441, at Fargo

Runnability levels are unknown. More information can be provided by calling the local outfitters or by calling the Waycross Fisheries Office at (912) 285-6094.

PAPER MAPS: (USGS maps) Billys Island, The Pocket, Strange Island, Fargo, Needmore, Fargo Southwest. (County maps) Charlton, Ware, Clinch, Echols

More Links

• Read more about the Suwannee River, one of Georgia’s 14 major watersheds.
• Read more about Stephen Foster State Park in the Okefenokee.
• Are the lyrics to “Way Down Upon the Swanee River” racist? Decide for yourself.
• Read more about the tragic life of Stephen Foster, who never laid eyes on the river he made world famous.

A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides to over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website.

By SUZANNE WELANDER

Factory Shoals Recreation Area
The distance is less than a mile. See map.
Rich in beauty and diverse in flora and wildlife, the Alcovy is born in Gwinnett County near Lawrenceville and flows south to drain Walton and Newton counties before spilling into Lake Jackson where it meets the Yellow and South rivers to form the Ocmulgee.

Not for the faint of heart, the Alcovy’s Factory Shoals section tests mettle with no-warm up. Paddlers put in above the bridge and run a quick loop down the series of rapids (White Shoals) to the first pool – then carry back up and repeat – or continue on to the more intense Ocoee-like Factory Shoals section that quickly reaches Class IV difficulty. At 1.7 feet on the bridge, the river right side of the last drop into the lake looked retentive as duct tape; the river left channel was playing host to a dead tree. No thanks.

An easily accessible Piedmont stream rich in beauty and diverse in flora and wildlife, the Alcovy is born in Gwinnett County near Lawrenceville and (more…)

By SUZANNE WELANDER

The Flint River was recently recognized by American Rivers as the second-most endangered wild river in the United States. Droughts are increasing pressure to dam the Flint, an effort that was last (and famously) forestalled by then-governor Jimmy Carter. Links to more information and background on the Flint’s endangered status, including a remarkable essay by Jimmy Carter written in 2001 describing his epic battle with the dam-advocating U.S. Corps of Engineers in the 70s, are included at the end of this guide. The photo above was taken at Sprewell Bluff. More Flint river photos by professional environmental photographer Beth Young are included below.

From GA Hwy 18/74 to GA 137, a distance of about 50.9 miles. The trip may be shortened or run in sections. See map.

In terms of wilderness beauty and spectacular vistas of varied terrain, the Flint is rivaled by no other large river in Georgia. In the Piedmont alone, the Flint alternately flows broad and narrow, beneath pine covered bluffs and at the foot of high rock walls, over extensive rocky shoals, through winding bottomland swamp, past cities and towns, and between fertile cultivated plateaus. In the Coastal Plain, the Flint meanders through alternating pine forests and swamp and reclaimed crop and pastureland. It is one of Georgia’s longest rivers, with headwaters originating south of Atlanta and tailwaters in the extreme southwestern corner of the state, where it meets the Chattahoochee River in Lake Seminole. The Flint is suitable for both weekend paddling and epic canoe-camping trips.

DESCRIPTION: In this section, the terrain alters dramatically with the river expanding to over 250 feet and descending a long series of ledges where steep wooded hills and small mountains converge to form an intimate and spectacular valley. Tall bluffs alternate with steep, sloping, forested hills and exposed rock walls and ledges. Pine Mountain looms majestically above the stream as the Flint passes along the Upson–Meriwether county line. This area narrowly escaped being inundated by a dam that was proposed to pen the river in at Sprewell Bluff.

Due to the breadth of the river, the vistas are unobstructed and overwhelming. So, too, is the forest, which is spectacularly diverse with both mountain and Coastal Plain species. Here, the ravines, slopes, and bluffs support beech, black gum, sourwood, sweet bay, white oak, chestnut oak, hickory, buckeye and tulip poplar. Evergreens include loblolly and shortleaf pines and red cedar. Along the streamside, tupelo gum and black willow are common, and mountain rhododendron grows side by side with such swamp shrubs as cyrilla. High on the mountains, exposed rock outcroppings colored with moss punctuate the green slopes. Of special geological interest is Dripping Rock, a quartzite outcrop located below the mouth of Elkins Creek at the northeastern terminus of Pine Mountain. Fabulously, this eclectic botanical mix is heavily draped with Spanish moss at Yellow Jacket Shoals, where an occasional palmetto encroaches on the scene.

The most formidable whitewater on the Flint occurs in the 9 miles between Sprewell Bluff and Po Biddy Road. Below Sprewell Bluff to the GA 36 bridge, shoals remain easy Class II, although they tend to be more continuous than upstream. In low water, the current pools above each ledge. In high water, however, the current is appreciably faster and precipitates the formation of some respectable holes.

Approximately half a mile beyond the GA 36 bridge lies Yellow Jacket Shoals. At low water, this long boderline Class III is technical with a couple of big drops and some hidden boat-eating rocks. Since this rapid defies a “straight through approach, paddlers attempting Yellow Jacket Shoals should possess skills in water reading, eddy turns and ferrying. At higher levels, the eddies disappear and the rapid becomes more intense. Fortunately, alternate routes become more numerous.

A series of islands divides the channel below Yellow Jacket Shoals, creating occasional narrows as the Flint passes them. Shoals persist through the island section but occur less frequently and never exceed Class II. Lazar Creek enters on river right at Hightower Shoals, announcing a sizable tract of Big Lazer Creek Wildlife Management Area land on the right. The dirt road to the boat ramp here succumbed to erosion from high waters in 2003, but access from the road is still possible, though challenging due to the steep banks. The surrounding terrain remains mountainous, spectcular, and remote until the final approach to Po Biddy Road.

Downstream of Po Biddy Road, the rugged, steep slopes begin to recede and taper down to an agricultural plateau by the time the river reaches the US 80 bridge. White kaolin bluffs start appearing in this section, as do cattle pastures. The gradient diminishes, and though the current remains swift, the shoals are smaller and occur less often. Passing an island midway between US 80 and GA 137, the last significant shoal is found where the river winds between high banks and rocky clay bluffs surrounded by cultivated tableland. The river narrows to 85-110 feet and flows swiftly, though flat and calm, with large sandbars appearing on the inside of turns at low water. This marks the Flint’s departure from the Piedmont and its arrival onto the Coastal Plain.

SHUTTLE: Most access points in this section are easily reached from Thomaston. For the final take-out at GA 137, take US 19 South to GA 208 East, which will intersect with GA 137 East at Pickling Mill. Follow the road to the river and the boat ramp on the far side. Sprewell Bluff State Park is reached from GA 74 west of Thomaston; turn left at Old Alabama Road and follow signs to the park.

GAUGE: A gauge is painted on the pilings visible from the outfitter located at the GA 36 bridge; call the Flint River Outdoor Center (706-647-2633) for levels. The USGS provides data for the gauge at Culloden, which can be used to estimate the bridge level. Divide the Culloden flow in half and add 6 feet. Using the bridge gauge, 7.0 is the recommended minimum. The river becomes enjoyable above 8.0. The park management has been known to turn people away from putting in at Sprewell Bluff when the bridge gauge is over 11 feet; call at (706) 646-6026 to verify access before leaving home if the gauge is headed over 10 feet. The Flint River Outdoor Center will run shuttles to their property at Goat Mountain, upriver from Sprewell, for experienced paddlers under those conditions.

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE FLINT AND ITS STATUS AS THE 2nd MOST ENDANGERED RIVER IN AMERICA

The Flint River is the Second Most Endangered River in America
The most credible and respected national river environmental organization, American Rivers, has named Georgia’s Flint River, my personal favorite river, the second most endangered river in the country. The recent drought and Georgia congressman Lynn Westmoreland’s misguided and out-of-date attempts to revive the discussion of a dam on the Flint are cited as among the reasons.

Jimmy Carter Saved the Flint
The most interesting and brilliantly insightful essay ever written about the controversial Corps of Engineers plan to dam the Flint River back in the 70s was written by Jimmy Carter, the person who halted the dam and personally saved the Flint River, as the Preface to the Flint River Guidebook published in 2001. It’s good reading anytime, but especially now with the announcement about the Flint being ranked as the #2 most endangered river in the country by American Rivers.

More Background on the Dam from Hell
Also worth reading in this context is Georgia native Gene Methvin’s story in Readers Digest in August 1974 about Jimmy Carter’s battle with the Corps of Engineers over the proposed Flint River dam.

Claude Terry Canoes the Flint
During all of this, Claude Terry, one of the earliest voices heard speaking out for preservation and protection of Georgia rivers, a microbiologist at Emory University, founder of Southeastern Expeditions, advisory to the movie “Deliverance,” the person who taught then Governor Jimmy Carter how to kayak, and, generally, the most macho guy you could ever imagine meeting, was paddling the Flint and writing about it. Here’s his guide to the Flint written the first time it was one of the most endangered rivers in America.

Flint River photo by Beth Young

Flint River photo by Beth Young

Flint River photo by Beth Young

Flint River photo by Beth Young

Flint River photo by Beth Young

By SUZANNE WELANDER

Family Fun on the Toccoa. The Toccoa’s many assets  incude beautiful scenery, wooded seclusion and mild rapids. See more photos of the Toccoa at the end of this guide.

The Toccoa is a purely delightful mountain stream. Its upper reaches harbor a primitive woodland paddling experience with mostly mild rapids. Unregulated by dams, the river’s flow becomes the major feeder for Blue Ridge Lake. Below the dam, the river widens as it weaves through settled lands on its way to McCaysville and into Tennessee, where it is thereafter known as the Ocoee River.

From Deep Hole Campground to Blue Ridge Lake, a distance of about 17.5 miles. Allow 1-2 days. Class I-II with some III.        See MAP

DESCRIPTON: While it is navigable by canoe or kayak above the junction with Cooper Creek in Fannin County, the highest usual put-in is the U.S. Forest Service campground at Deep Hole on GA 60. The first 3-mile segment traverses some farmland, some woodland, and intersects with a couple of roads before veering into the fragrant realm of the undisturbed forest. Putting in downstream of the campground where GA 60 passes near the river brings the forest’s entrance 1.8 miles closer. (more…)