Brown's Guide to Georgia

Search


GEORGIA RIVERS, STREAMS AND LAKES

Georgia rivers paddling guides, including interactive maps, plus essays, ideas and opinions about Georgia rivers and Georgia’s 14 major watersheds.

Archive for June, 2009

Chattooga River Canoeing Guide (Suzanne)

Sunday, June 28th, 2009

By  SUZANNE WELANDER

7footfallsrgb400.jpgSeven-foot Falls on Section IV of the Chattooga River in Northeast Georgia is just one of over two dozen dramatic waterfalls and rapids that earn the Chattooga its reputation as one of America’s most renowned canoeing, kayaking and rafting experiences. Here is a paddling guide to Sections II, III and IV of this whitewater gem. Compare this guide to Claude Terry’s 1972 Guide to the Chattooga and read Doug Woodward’s essay of his and Claude Terry’s experiences filming the movie “Deliverance” on the river. Photo by Beth Young.

The famed Chattooga is one of the nation’s most renowned rivers. Its reputation is well deserved – it is a spectacular wilderness river that frolics through rock outcroppings and forest thickets that contain virtually no sign of human habitation. Located along the srlsidebarrgb240.jpgGeorgia-South Carolina border, the river is protected under the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act and managed by the U.S. Forest Service, which divides the river into sections. The river above GA 28 (including Section I from Burrells Ford to the GA 28 Bridge) is the only stretch of river in Georgia where paddling is prohibited by law. The remaining three sections consist of 28 miles of pristine whitewater paddling that encompass something for all paddlers, from beginners to experts. Its excellence rivals any river in the country.

SECTION II GA Hwy. 28 to Earls Ford

SUMMARY: Class I-II (III); Length, 7.4 miles; Time, 4-5 hours; Gauge, website and visual; level 0.8 feet; Gradient, 11 feet per mile; Scenery, A. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP.

DESCRIPTION: Section II of the Chattooga begins at the GA 28 Bridge (there is easy access and parking on the Georgia side of the bridge) and continues down river to Earls Ford. This section is approximately 7 miles long and is a good day trip for beginning boaters. Initially, the stream is shallow and rocky with only a slight gradient. Considerable volume is added when the West Fork of the Chattooga flows in from the right approximately 100 yards below the GA 28 Bridge.

The valley through which the upper river flows has a rich history. It was at one time the site of Chattooga Old Town, one of the largest Native American settlements in the Southeast. The town became a major Indian trading center after white men came to the area. The valley was ideally suited for agriculture, and the land-lustful transplants soon appropriated the valley as their own. A large farmhouse owned by the Russell family is one of the few structures from the early agricultural period that is still standing. It lies just off the river on the South Carolina side above Long Bottom Ford, another access for this section.

This area was also visited by colonial naturalist William Bartram and described in his Travels. A portion of the Bartram Trail named in his honor, joint the Chattooga River Trail and parallels the river on the Georgia side throughout Section II down to Sandy Ford Road in Section III.

For the first few miles of Section II, the Chattooga is a meandering, gentle valley stream. Through the valley, the river remains close to SC 28, and several seasonal dwellings in private ownership are scattered along the South Carolina shore. Near the end of the valley is the access point at Long Bottom Ford. Upon leaving the valley, the terrain begins to revert to a wilderness character, and the river quickens its pace. Large hemlocks and white pines thrust from the rocky banks and small islands. In the spring, the banks sport a profusion of wildflowers and flowering shrubs, including the flame-orange and white wild azaleas.

After passing several large islands in the stream, you will reach the long deep pool that precedes Turn Hole Rapid, the first rapid that most paddlers deem worthy of a name. The rapid is not very difficult, but it can trick the unwary. The approach is through a shallow shoal area that has several possible routes. The main drop is usually entered near the left side. It calls for a quick turn to the right, which is necessary to avoid being pushed into the rocky bank. At average water levels, you can run near the center of the stream, straight across the main ledge, if desired. The drop is about 3 feet.

Continuing downstream through another half mile or so of mild Class I and II rapids, you will round the bend to see a group of large boulders and rock slabs extending almost completely across the river. This is Big Shoals, rated as Class III by the Forest Service, and should be scouted. The approach to the rapid is blind due to the large rocks, and occasionally, long or entire trees have become lodged in the main chutes. Scout from the boulders to the right of center.

Big Shoals is a veritable whitewater gymnasium – an excellent place for a beginner to play and train. There are several routes to run and a large pool at the bottom for easy recovery. There is also a relatively simple portage back up and over the rocks if you wish to try it again.

The easiest and most popular route at Big Shoals is next to the right bank. There is a nice tongue dropping swiftly into a small reversal wave at the head of the pool below. Other possible routes are over the curler at the right center and, at most water levels, the chute on the far left side.

The reminder of the trip down to Earls Ford had many long, slow pools and a sprinkling of Class I and Class II whitewater. Look for wildlife in this section; many hawks nest near the stream, and deer are frequently seen early and late in the day.

You will easily recognize the Earls Ford take-out where Warwoman Creek, a fairly large stream, enters the river on the right. There is a well-trodden sand and gravel beach on the left. If you are getting out here, you are about to begin the worst part of your trip – the quarter-mile carry uphill to the parking lot.

SHUTTLE: Drive east on 76 out of Clayton to the take-out at Earls Ford. Approximately 2 miles after crossing the river into South Carolina, turn left onto Chattooga Ridge Road. About 6 miles ahead, turn left onto Earls Ford Road and proceed another 3.8 miles to the parking area. Put-ins are reached by returning to the Chattooga Ridge Road and proceeding north another 3.4 miles to SC 28. Turn left here; the entrance to Long Bottom Ford is 4.7 miles ahead or use the GA/SC 28 Bridge on the Georgia side of the river.

GAUGE: The minimum runnable level is 0.8 feet; maximum is 3.5. Most boaters refer to the visual gauge located at the US 76 Bridge. Levels for this location are also available on the USGS website, but are not exactly the same as visual levels. Recently, the staff gauge was unofficially moved in a misguided attempt to remove the discrepancy, resulting in further confusion. Levels provided here refer to the historic position of the visual gauge.

SECTION III Earls Ford to US 76

TRIP SUMMARY: Class II-IV (V); Length, 12.2 miles; Time, 6.5 hours; Gauge, USGS website and visual. Level 0.8 feet; Gradient, 25 feet per mile; Scenery, A+. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP.

DESCRIPTION: Section III of the Chattooga stretches from Earls Ford to the US 76 bridge. Multiple access points along this stretch allow for day-trips of manageable length. Depending on the amount of time spent scouting or portaging, paddling all of Section III in one day is difficult, and definitely strenuous.

By the time the river reaches Earls Ford, the volume has increased significantly and the average gradient is much steeper than that of Section II. The first rapid encountered is a fairly straight drop to the right of center over a 3-foot ledge. From the large eddy and pool below this drop, look downstream and to the left for the entrance to Warwoman Rapid. This tricky Class II+ should be entered on the left, heading toward the right. After the small initial drop, make a quick turn to the left and back downstream. The pillowed rock in the center of the chute can pin or capsize your boat if you do not make the turn quickly.

Rock Gardens, noted more for its scenic value than for the difficulty of its rapids, is next. You weave between huge boulders and fingerlike slabs of granite that often overshadow the stream. The rapids are mild, but you should stay on your toes.

Three Rooster Tails Rapid is the next challenge. After a sharp bend in the river, the channel narrows and spills over a series of funneling rocky ledges beneath overhanging rocks. Three pluming waves (the rooster tails) can be seen in the center of the route. The easiest run is just to the right of these pluming waves.

Just below this rapid, the river widens and slows to relative tranquility. As you look far downstream, you will see Dicks Creek (Five Finger) Falls cascading over a 50-to-60-foot droop into the river on the right. Slightly upstream of this falls, on the Chattooga, is a low shelf of rock that forms part of a definite river horizon line. Stop on this shelf for a mandatory scouting of Dicks Creek Ledge.

Dicks Creek Ledge is given a Class IV rating in Forest Service literature. There are several possible routes; one of them is a portage over the rocks in the center. Most who run the rapid try to make the S-turn over the two drops. Start the first drop heading toward the right, and be prepared to make an extreme cut back to the left at the bottom of the second drop. The S-turn maneuver becomes increasingly difficult at higher water levels.

A short distance beyond Dicks Creek Ledge, you will observe a large rocky island. Down the right side of this island is a series of Class III drops called Stairsteps Rapid. This is not one of the major rapids on Section III. If you are doing well at this point, selecting an appropriate course through Stairsteps should not be difficult.

Just below Stairsteps is another island, which precedes Class III Sandy Ford Rapid. The favored route is also to the right of this island. Sandy Ford, a mid-section access point, is located on the left immediately after this rapid. It is recognizable by the sand beaches on both sides of the river, but the Forest Service road on the South Carolina side is recommended.

As you round the bend below Sandy Ford, you will come into a large pooled area that leads to the entrance to the fabled Narrows. The Narrows’ combination of whitewater, high rock faces, and drooping ferns has made this a favorite spot on the river. If you’ve brought your camera, this should definitely be recorded on film. To scout the entrance, get out on the lower left end of this pool.

In the Narrows, the river drops over a series of ledges, decreasing in width as it drops. The biggest holes are just to the left of center; the least turbulent path is to the far right. Take your pick. Open canoes need to bail and others needing a breather may eddy out on the left below the first series of drops. The river continues to narrow and drop until it’s only a few feet wide, which creates some strangely turbulent currents. The final drop in the Narrows is around the right side of an undercut rock midstream. It should be noted that the area immediately below this series of drops has fast moving and highly irregular boiling currents, strong eddy lines, and numerous undercut rocks. For these reasons, the Forest Service has given the Narrows a Class IV rating. If you should find yourself swimming in the Narrows, avoid all contact with rocks, except from the downstream side.

One of the more dramatic rapids on Section III is not far downstream. Second Ledge is a breathtaking and heart-stopping 6-foot vertical drop. It may be scouted from the left bank at any water level, and from the rocks in the center of the stream at lower levels. Most paddlers run straight over the top of the drop on the left. Keep your boat parallel to the current and maintain brisk speed. Be ready to brace firmly when you hit the aerated water at the bottom. Second ledge is not extremely difficult, but it does get the adrenaline pumping.

Less than 2 miles from Second Ledge is Eye of the Needle, a Class III plunge. Most of the current is pushed against the left bank down a narrow chute that cuts slightly back to the right. The current does most of the work for you in this rapid, but beware of leaning too far to the right as you progress down the chute. You may need a strong brace to stay upright.

For approximately the next 4 miles, the river alternates between long pools and Class I and II rapids. Two additional access points are available in this segment; the first is reached by a steep path from the end of FS 723, the second of these is more easily spotted from the river and is marked with a post engraved “Fall Creek.” The creek itself enters the river downstream of this point, cascading 25 feet into the river. The next two significant rapids are just ahead.

Roller Coaster is a fast, bucking, Class II ride down an extended series of large standing waves. Go for the center of the waves for the most excitement. There is a large pool at the base of Roller Coaster in which to bail and recover if necessary. Immediately around the bend is Keyhole, or Painted Rock Rapid. Much of the current pushes strongly toward a huge undercut boulder at the bottom of the drop. To avoid this rock, begin to the right of center and continue to work right as you descend. You may also run down the extreme left, but a move to the right of the boulder is still essential. If the water level is extremely low, the far left or far right may be your only choices. Painted Rock is rated a Class IV by the Forest Service but is generally considered to by III+ difficulty.

Roughly 3 more miles of Class I and II water brings you to the Class IV+ Bull Sluice. You will know you’ve arrived at Bull Sluice because of the extremely large boulders extending from the Georgia side of the river, which seem to block the entire stream. Even those who have run this rapid many times before still stop to scout it. Pull out well above these rocks on the Georgia (right) side and walk down to do your scouting. Inexperienced paddlers and those unfamiliar with the sluice have been known to enter the Class III rapids just above it only to find themselves committed to running the thundering lower drops against their will.

Changing water levels alter the difficulty of Bull Sluice considerably and may also alter your plan of attack. Bull Sluice has been run in an infinite variety of crafts by an infinite variety of people. On any given day, you will see examples of the worst and best whitewater technique at Bull Sluice. The rapid should not be taken lightly; there have been fatalities here, and on several occasions people, both in and out of their boats have been stuck in the upper hydraulic for uncomfortably long periods of time. The lower drop is much rockier beneath the surface than it appears. Look at it carefully before you decide to run it. The portage is on the right side over the boulders.

If you decide to run Bull Sluice, here is one of the many possible routes. Follow the Class III entrance rapid down the river-left side and hit the eddy on the left, which is just above the major drop. If you are in an open canoe and have taken on much water, this is the place to bail it out. It is a good spot of level river from which to reconnoiter what lies ahead. Peel out very high from this eddy and head straight over the first of the double drops just to the left of the center of the upper hole. The current will tend to push you to the left, so use it to your advantage to hit the second drop head on. Good luck!

A few hundred yards below Bull Sluice is the US 76 Bridge. This marks the end of Section III and the beginning of Section IV. Boating access is from the large paved parking lot on the South Carolina side of the bridge. The Forest Service also provides a footpath access to Bull Sluice for those who may want to get a glimpse of the giant rapid without actually getting wet.

SHUTTLE: The take-out is located on US 76 east of Clayton. The parking lot is the first left immediately after crossing the river. All put-ins for this section are reached via the Chattooga Ridge Road, a left turn 2 miles farther east on US 76. Other access points, from highest to lowest, are at Earls Ford (down Earls Ford Road), Sandy Ford (a left turn on FS 721A off Earls Ford Road), FS 723 and FS 769 off Fall Creek Road, and Thrifts Ferry accessible via a dirt road 1 mile east of the bridge on US 76.

GAUGE: Most boaters refer to the visual gauge located at the US 76 Bridge (see first section). Levels for this location are also available on the USGS website, but are not exactly the same as visual levels. Section III can be run as low as 0.8 feet, but below 1.5 expect to be scraping along, particularly in the higher reaches. It is much more fun at 2 feet and above, and should only be run by expert boaters above 3 feet.

SECTION IV U.S. 76 to Lake Tugaloo

SUMMARY: Class, IV-V; Length, 8.3 miles; Time, 4.5 hours; Gauge, Website, visual; Level, 0.8 feet; Gradient, 46 feet per mile; Scenery A+. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP.

DESCRIPTION: In spite of the myriad attractions of Section III, it is probably Section IV’s reputation as the ultimate whitewater experience that brings the throngs to the Chattooga. Skilled boaters from throughout North America try to make at least one pilgrimage to Section IV. Because of the greater difficulty and frequency of this section, it should only be attempted by those with a high degree of competence. Since it is advisable that only advanced boaters attempt to paddle this section, this guide will give attention only to the more hazardous or unusual rapids.

Surfing Rapid, just around the first bend is exactly what it sounds like – an excellent spot for surfing or playing in the river. The best wave is to the far right.

Screaming Left Turn is located approximately 200 yards below Surfing Raid. Large boulders direct the main stream to the far right. The river then flushes through an extremely sharp turn back to the left – almost all the way to the left bank. The most straightforward route is to follow the main channel, avoiding the shallows on the outside of the curve where strainers sometimes lodge. Screaming Left Turn is designated a Class IV by the Forest Service. Approximately a half-mile farther downstream you will reach a point where the river is choked by a large mound of granite; only a horizon line is visible from upstream. This rapid is called Rock Jumble. Several bumpy routes are possible, but the best route is probably to the left of center, following the tongue of deeper water that begins there and washes right and toward the center. Just below, the river calms into a pooled area known locally as Sutton’s Hole. It is a popular swimming hole and a good rest stop.

At this point, you are not far from what is probably the most dangerous spot on the river, Woodall Shoals. When you see a granite shelf extending far into the river from the South Carolina (left) side, you are approaching Woodall. Stop on the rocks on the left side to scout. Do not be deceived by the way this rapid appears. The first drop creates a vicious recirculation hydraulic that has taken the lives of many people. Carry around over the rocks to the left and re-enter well below the hydraulic, or take the rock slide near the far right bank if the water is high enough. The rest of the river provides enough thrills; so do not needlessly risk your neck at Woodall. Below the first drop, about 50 yards of Class III water takes you down to a large pool. There is a good dirt-road access via FS 757 on the South Carolina side if you wish to enter or leave the river from here.

Beyond the pool, the river begins to narrow and drop swiftly. When the river appears to drop out of sight on the left, stop on the right and scout the next rapid – Seven Foot Falls. A large granite outcropping splits the stream with a sheer 7-foot drop on the left and a more gradual descent to the right, which can only be run at high levels. If you choose the left route, boof the top right-hand corner of the drop with considerable speed. Aim for the aforementioned granite outcropping, expecting that the force of the water will push you left just before the drop. Ideally, you can then drop into the eddy with your hair still dry.

The next few miles provide many Class II-III rapids, with the first sizable series marked by Stekoa Creek cascading in from the Georgia side. The larger sheer drop of Long Creek, entering from the South Carolina, side is not too far beyond and is an excellent place to stop for a break.

As you continue downstream, Deliverance Rock, a gargantuan boulder on the right, looms into view. (It is so named because many of the scenes from the movie Deliverance were filmed there). Approach from the right side of the river. A standard line is to run from the right to the bottom-left of the rapid, steering well clear of Deliverance Rock itself, which is undercut.

Raven Chute is the next challenge and is easily recognized by the imposing cliffs that loom into view as you round a bend in the river. In the wintertime, when the vegetation is light, you can see the outline of the raven for which this Class IV rapid is named. The bird’s head is silhouetted against the sky and his great wings are outstretched on either side. Scouting should be done from the left shore. Though there are several routes through this rapid, be careful about experimenting. Its hidden potholes and sieves have claimed at least one life. A good kayak route starts on the left and follows the top of the long curling diagonal wave to the right. At high water, it becomes very important to stay on the highest point of this curler; erring to the left will slam you against a rock wall and then dump you back upstream into a large re-circulating hole. Canoeists sometimes begin their descent further right, paddling across the curler and allowing the pile to push the bows of their boats right.

A mile or so of more moderate water beings you to FS 511, which can be discerned by a sandy beach on the right. FS 511 is a steep unpaved road, but it is the last opportunity to exit before the most formidable section of whitewater on the Chattooga – the Class III-V Five Falls.

All of the five drops should be scouted from the shore. The Five Falls section begins when most of the water is channeled to the left of the river; eddy out behind the large boulder in the center of the river. From here, you can see a rock garden below you on the left and a large downstream eddy at the edge of the horizon line on river right. Paddle smartly to this right-hand eddy, avoiding the rock garden and sieves on river left. At this point, there is an opportunity to scout the actual drop, a 3-foot fall against the right bank followed by a short pool. After the drop, head quickly across to the left bank to scout the second fall, Corkscrew.

From the left bank, you can get right on top of the drop and look into the chaos of Corkscrew. There are two big holes on the right-hand side of this rapid, but the left side is shallow and fraught with curler waves that will easily flip you. The preferred route is a sinuous curve that keeps the holes on your right and the shallows on your left. Eddy out on the right at the bottom. If you decide to portage, the right bank is slightly easier.

Scout Crack in the Rock from the right side. Here cracked boulders split the river into three narrow falls, each of which drops about 5 feet. Below 2 feet, the center is the preferred route, but make sure you have enough room to punch the hole at the bottom. Somewhere above 2 feet, a fourth crack – “far right crack” – opens and is easy to avoid but has nevertheless proven itself to be a consistently fatal funnel for swimmers.

Below Crack in the rock, ferry to the left bank to scout Jawbone, which is probably the rapid with the greatest number of potential hazards. Jawbone is two soft drops joined by a startlingly fast tongue of water curved like a jawbone. Most people enter this drop at the curve of the jaw and ride it straight to the bottom. Be careful, however, as there are two hazards along the way: the first is an undercut rock to the right of the first drop; the second is the infamous Hydroelectric Rock to the right of the second drop, a round shed-sized boulder with an underwater funnel at about surface level. Reports of those unlucky enough to take an unscheduled swim through this tunnel confirm that the passage is large enough for a person, but not large enough for a person and a boat. This hole is often lodged with debris; a swim into the hole could be your last. The dangers of Jawbone are further magnified by what awaits accidental swimmers at the next horizon line: an unlucky choice between the bizarrely configured boulder sieve called Puppy Chute, the undercut table rock nicknamed Allison’s Rock, or the Class V hole called Sock’em Dog, all of which have claimed lives. To scout Sock’em Dog, ferry back to the left side of the stream below Hydroelectric Rock.

Sock’em Dog, impressive at all water levels, is the last of the Five Falls and is rated Class V by the Forest Service. If you do not like the looks of Sock’em Dog, portage on the left. Those running the drop generally begin in one of the two large right-hand eddies. Peel out wide in order to approach from the left of the channel with a right-hand angle; that way you can drive strongly across the current, which will tend to push you left. There is a smooth hump of water near the center of the top of the drop called the “launching pad.” Keep up your speed and go over the top of the launching pad or just to the right of it. Crosscurrents are powerful. Boofing clean over the hole from the launching pad is the most impressive line. But erring to the right of the pad is preferable to landing in the left side of the hole, which is not only the stickier side, but also has a pinning rock knows as “Handkerchief Rock.” The pool below is a good place from which to watch others or pick up your gear.

At the end of this calm area is Shoulder Bone Rapid. A jutting granite escarpment in the river is reminiscent of a shoulder bone, hence the name. The channel curves around to the left in a C-shape. Follow the water, but don’t relax too much, as there is a hole midway down the middle of the channel.

A few Class II-III rapids remain before the rollicking Chattooga becomes the dispassionate Lake Tugaloo. The next 2 miles across the lake to the take-out are painfully slow, so you might as well enjoy the scenery. Take-out on the left at Tugaloo Lake Road. If this road is impassible, you must paddle on down to the dam where an access road is on the right.

SHUTTLE: The put-in is at the US 76 Bridge parking lot on the South Carolina Side. To get to the take-out at Lake Tugaloo from there, take a left out of the parking lot. Turn right at the first paved road, Orchard Road, and follow it until it ends. Turn right onto Damascus Church Road. Pass Damascus Church on the left, and shortly thereafter, you will see a sign for the Tugaloo Boat Ramp. Bear right down a windy and steep gravel road that takes you to the ramp. The other take-out is located at FS 757, also accessed off of Orchard Road. The 4-mile trip down FS 511, if needed, is reached by going east on Camp Creek Road from US 441 south of Clayton, then turning left after 1.4 miles onto Water Gauge Road and taking the right fork at FS 511B.

GAUGE: Using levels from the bridge gauge at US 76 (see first section), boaters run this section as low as 0.8 feet. A good first-time level is somewhere between 1.2 and 1.7 feet. At 2.0, the difficulty of the river bumps up to another level; some of the Class IV rapids become class Vs and so on. At 2.5 and above, Five Falls is for experts only. The pools between the five falls disappear, Jawbone develops a terminal hole, and Sock-Em-Dog becomes a river-wide hole as well.

MAPS: USGS Maps: Satolah, Whetstone, Rainy Mountain; County Maps: Rabun, GA and Oconee, SC; U. S. Forest Service Maps: Chattooga National Wild and Scenic River.

Chattooga River Canoeing Guide (Claude)

Sunday, June 28th, 2009

By CLAUDE TERRY

claudergb400.jpgClaude Terry and his son Michael canoeing the Chattooga River in 1972. Terry was one of the first people to explore the Chattooga as a recreational canoeing and kayaking experience. He served as a technical advisor and double in the movie “Deliverance” and was a founder of Southeastern Expeditions, the original Chattooga outfitter.

Editors Note: The story below by Claude Terry was written for Brown’s Guides in 1972 after his experience as a consultant and double on the movie “Deliverance,” and before the Chattooga was named a Wild and Scenic River. Read it in conjunction with the essay by Doug Woodward about his, Claude’s and Payson Kennedy’s experiences filming the movie “Deliverance” and Suzanne Welander’s guide to canoeing the Chattooga here in the Streams, Rivers and Lakes blog. Though the canoeing action Claude describes is as fresh as the Chattooga headwaters, the story is over 30 years old, so when following specific directions to put-ins and take-outs, use Suzanne Welander’s guide. Be sure and see the interactive Chattooga River map that includes the locations of most of the rapids described in both Claude’s and Suzanne’s guides. Read together, Claude’s 1972 story, Doug Woodward’s essay about his and Claude’s experience filming “Deliverance,” and Suzanne Welander’s guide provide a detailed guide to the Chattooga and some personal insights by indivuduals who have had unique relationships with this special Georgia river. VIEW THE INTERACTIVE MAP showing the locations of the rapids in Claude’s guide and photographs for most of them.

The canoe bucks, twitches, and lurches up and over above a series of heart-stopping cascades, down which the spilled canoeists bounce and scrub, to lie exhausted in the eddy at the bottom, accessing their losses in skin and equipment. A scene from “Deliverance?” It could be, for the hit movie was filmed on Georgia’s wild, scenic Chattooga River. More likely, the spill is one of many that day for novice canoeists who have come to test their skill against this acknowledged king of the Southeast’s whitewater rivers. The ranks of canoeists and rafters on the river have been swelled by those eager to see and run rapids made known by the movie.

Of all of the sources of recreation available, running water probably offers the most exciting variety of experiences. Fishermen, sinners, tubers, rafters, canoeists and kayakers find pleasure in streams. These streams range form backwater, pastoral streams in the Deep South to clear mountain creeks and turbulent, cascading torrents like the Chattooga.

Here’s how to try your luck on this stream, soon to be protected forever by the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act.

SECTION III FROM  EARLS FORD TO HWY 76

The Chattooga is entrapped in the mountains about 120 miles northeast of Atlanta and forms Georgia’s eastern boundary with South Carolina. To reach the river, drive east from Clayton on US 76 for approximately eight miles. The section of the Chattooga, which we will describe here, ends at the crossing of US 76 and the Chattooga. This is shown on the accompanying map. Most parties of rafters or canoeists drop one car here to shuttle drivers back to the top for other vehicles after the trip. (It is not a bad idea to walk upstream on the SC side at this point for about a quarter mile, to see Bull Sluice, so you will recognize this dangerous fall when coming down the river.)

After dropping a car, continue on highway 76 into South Carolina for about two miles. This brings you to the first paved road turning left, which leads to the put-in. After turning left, travel approximately seven miles to the first four-way stop. Turn left again and follow this road to Earl’s Ford. As the name implies, there is no bridge over the river at Earl’s Ford, and in fact there is only a jeep trail on the other side. The road into the Ford is paved at first, but changes to gravel about three miles from the river. Parking may be a problem on Saturdays and Sundays during the summer months, gut there is parking down a track turning left a hundred yards before the ford. You will generally have fewer difficulties getting on and particularly off the river if you arrive by nine-thirty to ten o’clock.

Check the water level at the Earl’s Ford gauge that is about 200 yards downstream on the S.C. Side of the river. A reading of 0.7 or below is low for rafts, and will be draggy for canoes and kayaks as well. From 0.7 to 1.3 to 2.0 feet is okay for rafts and kayakists who can do the Eskimo roll reliably, but heavy for open canoes. If the river is above 2.0 feet at Earl’s Ford gauge, approach it only with a strong party of experienced people, and then with all possible safety precautions.

Assuming a safe water level, put your boat raft in here for one of the most memorable adventures in the Southeast.

From Earls Ford you will paddle only 500 yards or so before you encounter a simple, single ledge and soon thereafter a complex ledge best entered on the left (SC side) and requiring a good left turn farther down. There are only a few multiple drops here, but they provide enough action to keep you busy.

About one and a quarter miles later, you will encounter the Rock Gardens,  great blades of rock whose bedding plane is angled to the river’s surface, creating a memorable maze, with some rapids thrown in. Several scenes in “Deliverance” were shot here.

Another half mile of mild water brings you to Dick’s Creek, which cascades in from Georgia down Five Finger Falls. Here, the ledge in the river should be scouted! Don’t just wash over this one, particularly in high water. The best portage is at right center. Open canoes and kayaks can run the rapid by entering the current over the ledge with the bow angled right and dropping into the first slot.

Below Dick’s Creek, there are two good sets of multiple rapids before Sandy Ford. Run right of the island in each case. If you have an emergency or find the river more than you can handle, the Sandy Ford road on the GA side is usually negotiable by rough country vehicles.

Below the ford, the river bends right through mild rapids, then left into a calm pool. This is the warning for the Narrows, where more canoes swamp than any other place on the river. If you have water, bail it out before entering the Narrows. The Narrows consist of a constricted canyon wit three sharp drops in rapid succession, followed by two more drops with weird cross currents and very narrow passages. Go solo if possible, backwater, and be prepared to bail out open boats in any eddy you can get into. Looking back from the bottom of the Narrows is one of my favorite views in the world, with a mossy, spring-studded cliff overhanging the river.

At the bend in the river below the Narrows is a rapid commonly called Second Ledge. (Dick’s Creek Ledge is the first). Again, scout or portage from right center. The best canoe or kayak run is at the left side, down a slide across the face of the waterfall. Daring and fun if you make it!

Below Second Ledge, there is a torturous, shallow mile and one-half down to Eye of the Needle. This is a chute, entered on the extreme left side of the river, dropping and twisting to the right. It can be recognized from above by the beautiful waterfall on the creek on the left, just above the drop. There are probably more turn-overs in Eye than any other rapid, due to the large rock which juts from the left bank at the bottom of the chute. The current turns away just before the rock, but many people lean away so far that they overturn.

Following the Eye, there are about four miles of easy rapids down to Fall Creek Falls. This stream falls over several five-foot drops directly into the river and is a good marker for the two rapids, which follow. This is Roller Coaster, a series of large waves that can readily swamp an incautious open canoe, but it’s the best ride on the river.

Keyhole is a large ledge just below Roller Coaster. Be sure to bail before going on down. There are two drops in the keyhole, and the collected waters then flush against a house-sized boulder at the bottom. The best entry to Keyhole is in the right center moving right, since an overturn here does not necessarily bring you against the boulder.

Below Keyhole, three miles of moderate rapids bring you to a view of a large gray boulder on the right, with a nice rapid bending around left out of sight. Don’t go down this rapid blindly! This is Bull Sluice, which you should check very carefully before putting your body into its cauldron. Rafts can run Bulls Sluice, but helmets and life vests should be worn. The Forest Service says rafters have been killed in Bull Sluice from hitting their heads. Kayaks also can run the Sluice, and an occasional solo open canoe makes it down. The only successful tandem run of the Sluice I have seen was (then) Governor Carter and yours truly. (Luck). Don’t try to run the Sluice tandem unless you place no value on your boat and legs. A swamping is almost sure to occur in the first drop, and if you stay in the canoe, you will be thrown suddenly forward when the canoe encounters the submerged rock halfway down the second drop. If you are out of the canoe, your sitting area will contact the rock, with unhappy results. After these dire warnings, if you insist on attempting the Sluice, come over the first diagonal drop headed directly toward the right side. The roller at the bottom of this first drop is a “keeper” at some levels and may hold you in for some time. A real bad scene.

Below Bull Sluice, a quarter-mile of mild rapids brings you to a sand beach upstream of the bridge, which is the take-out for the trip.

SECTION IV, HWY 76 BRIDGE TO TUGALOO LAKE

Nostalgia is a funny thing. Writing this I realize this fact most strongly. There are at least two types of nostalgia, which I feel just now. The longing and reminiscence for childhood days and friends and the desire to renew acquaintances is one type of nostalgia. I also feel, looking at winter pines and watching rain douse the landscape, a nostalgia for past springs and a longing anticipation for springs to come. When these longings take the form of mental pictures, I realize they are largely vistas of one stretch of river, the lower Chattooga.

We first began to run the lower Chattooga in the summer of 1968. At that time, we knew of only one or two people who had dried that fast-dropping river in open canoes. On topographical maps, the gorges appeared deep and inaccessible. We had heard names such as “Sock-’Em Dog, “Shoulder Bone, “Jawbone,” and   ‘Woodall Shoals” applied to the rapids. Our first trips left us    convinced that many of these rapids could not be run.

These early trips led us to label other rapids, and some of the names have stuck. We talk of “Corkscrew,” “Jumble,”  “Raven Rock,” “Seven-Foot Falls,” and “Surfing Rapid.” So much of the movie “Deliverance” was filmed at one house sized boulder that Doug Woodward and I began calling it “Deliverance Rock” and that name also stuck. What I’m getting at is my mind conjures up scenic vistas from the loser Chattooga at the drop of a hat, smell of a white pine, or sound of rain rivuleting off my roof. The river has not changed in four years, but the number and capabilities of users certainly has. Any warm summer weekend will see several rafting parties on the river, and several groups of canoeists and kayakers playing in the rapids.

Kayaks have proven ideal for this river. When I got my first kayak in 1969, it was the first in the Georgia Canoeing Association. When I attempted Sock ‘Em Dog” in that kayak it was, so far as we knew, the first successful run on that rapid. Once before, Claude Grizzard and I had attempted the rapid in a 16-foot Old Town Canoe, but that is another story and another cracked canoe! Now, there are hundreds of kayaks in this area. As to the capabilities of paddlers, kids  (including my 11-year-old son Michael) now occasionally run Sock ‘Em Dog and most other rapids backwards for variety.

Though it may sound as though we have lost respect for the river’s difficulties, that’s not the case. We still travel in strong parties and are careful about the water level at which we attempt the trip. We and other paddlers have simply extended our capabilities, and the younger paddlers seem to start in at our level. I’m not sure what this means for the future of boating, but the next Olympic team may be quite young.

Before deciding to run the Chattooga yourself, get with a group of other paddlers or rafters who have experience on this river. If you don’t know such paddlers, join the Georgia Canoeing Association and go on one of our several annual trips on this great stream. If you are a rafter, at least follow the white water code, and read this article before running the river.

Let me give you some idea of the beauty and hazards of this trip. Starting from US 76 Bridge, you are quickly involved in action. At “normal” water levels) from 1.5 to 2 ft. on the gauge 100 yards below the bridge (on the S.C. side) you will want to stay left down to the first curve, where “Surfing Rapid” is entered from the right.

Several easy ledges follow, and then the main current flows to the far right, behind several boulders. This is the entrance to Screaming Left Turn, which was the location (shot from several different angles) for several scenes from “Deliverance.” The careless canoeist finds himself driven straight at a rock, with a cross-current left move needed, but difficult. Below the left turn is a pool, where recovery of gear, bruised bodies and egos is possible.

The next rapid follows immediately and is best run on the right. Several chutes follow through a small gorge ending in a slanting left side run into a short pool. This pool and the large sandbar on the Georgia side are good indicators for a large single drop about 200 yards downstream. This rapid called Jumble fits its name by being an apparent pile of rock with no clear passages. You should scout Jumble from the bank your first time down.

Below Jumble, there is about one-third-of-a-mile of shallow, mile rapids, then a widening and deepening of the stream. This is called Suttons Hole. It is used by local residents as a swimming place and is a good place to camp overnight.

The river curves left here, and about 300 yards downstream, a large granite ledge extends from the left and forces the boater to the right. This is Woodall Shoals,  which is dangerous, particularly in higher water  (over 1.7 feet on the gauge) and tends to keep rafts, often ripping out the bottoms. The problem here is a wide, nearly perfectly shaped hydraulic or “souse” hole at the bottom of the first drop. This drop can be sounded or portaged by landing on the ledge at the left side. Let me emphasize – I have seen several rafts kept in this hole for 5 minutes to a half hour. If you insist on trying the drop, stay far left, in the strong tongue dropping into the “notch” in the rapid, and paddle like hell at the bottom. The hydraulic will pull boats (and people) back into the hole from 10 to 15 feet downstream. Don’t play with this first hole in high water. The shoal after the initial drop is twisting, exciting and a good natural slalom course.

The beauty of Woodall shoals has attracted visitors, and a forest service road comes to the pool at the bottom of the rapid. If you have had trouble to here, get out. It is going to get better (or worse, depending on your view).

Below Woodall Shoals, the banks begin to form a gorge, and the water gets heavy. A series of three drops down the boulder-studded gorges brings you to the top of Seven-Foot Falls, which is mighty impressive if seen unexpectedly from the brink. Let the first drop in this gorge warn you to stop and scout this fall. There is a cheat route on the right behind the boulder, which is pretty hairy itself, but which looks much better once you’ve seen one boat go over the fall. It is wise to have someone below with a rope before running either Woodall Shoals or this fall, as either can readily flip boat or raft, and lead to a long, seat-bruising ride.

Several good rapids follow in the next quarter mile, then the river opens up, and a large, fast-dropping creek flows in from the right. This is Stekoa Creek, and the rapid just below is one-third mile of beautiful moderate slalom-type twisting and turning. No single large drops, just constant excitement. At 2 feet on the gauge, this is great water.

At the bottom of Steloa Creek Rapids is a pool, and to your left is a truly beautiful waterfall, Long Creek Falls. This falls was in “Deliverance” and also on the cover of the Atlanta Journal Magazine last summer. Below Long Creek, the river cascades over several drops, with the last cascade in the series piling against a whale-sized boulder, which served as the location for some of the post-wreck scenes in “Deliverance.” The wise paddler will stay left away from this monster rock, moving left in the rapid above the rock.

Just below “Deliverance Rock,” you can catch your first view of a cliff, which I believe to be the most beautiful on, any Georgia river. This is Raven Rock, a 200-foot granite precipice, with beautiful mosses and ferns festooning its surfaces.

Just above the cliff is Raven Rock Rapid, which is entered from the extreme left side. This apparently formidable rapid, which one guide book says cannot be run, is actually a simple open canoe run if approached from the left. The boat or raft is squirted out to the right with tremendous speed, making this one of the best rides on the river.

Below Raven Rock there is about a mile of fairly constant, but not spectacular, water. Eventually, you come to a low bank on the right with signs of use where a 4-wheel vehicle road comes near the river. The small creek below this camping site is called, naturally enough, Camp Creek. The mountaineer with the arrow hole in his chest was “buried” up this creek during the making of “Deliverance.”

The creek and the small rounded mountain beside it are good indications that about 500 yards downstream are the Five Falls Rapids. The pool just above Five Falls is a good place to land to scout the next quarter-mile or to start the portage (difficult) or to say a prayer (easy at this point). The first rapid, inanely named “First Fall” by us but labeled “Devil’s Chute” by the Forest Service (who should know), is entered on the left and is best run by moving right as you descend the first two drops. A small pool at the right bank offers a place to bail and look around the large boulder at the best chute down the 4-to-5-foot drop. Doug Woodward and I ran this rapid for one of the exciting scenes in the film “Deliverance.”

If you swamp or dump in First Fall, get to shore because about 100 feet downstream is Corkscrew, and you don’t want to swim this one. Murray Evans once swam this rapid and sat out some good canoeing months with broken ribs. Corkscrew may be the toughest single rapid on the Chattooga. It is best run by entering at left center, moving left and quickly correcting for the tremendous right, left, right surges which give the rapid its name. There is a decent recovery pool below Corkscrew but again get out quickly if swamped.

Crack in the Rock (really three cracks) follows in short order and should be scouted very carefully. We formerly ran the center crack, which is so narrow a canoe must go through tilted (the drop of 5 feet is in the cracked boulder), until broken paddles, broken noses and badly scrubbed elbows convinced us to use the more open right side crack, which is, however, treacherous. Trees often wedge in this crack, and a broached boat could be disastrous here. Below Crack there is a good pool, so bail out water or stop and scout from here.

The next two rapids are almost continuous, so that the actual difficulty of Jawbone is magnified, since you know that a turnover may well leave you swimming in Sock ‘Em Dog. Jawbone is entered from the right and is best run by catching the eddy pool against the left bank after crossing, then cutting back into the currents, which overlap each other to build up a distressing “ridge” down the center of a long chute with 6-to-8 feet of drop.

This chute “runs out” against the left bank, with good waves and currents constantly forcing you into the wall. The current then turns abruptly right behind a large boulder and leads over the right side into Sock’em Dog. There is an eddy on the left, which is a good place for some people to stop to portage, or potential suicides like myself to catch a breath before entering Sock’em Dog.

Sock’em Dog starts innocently with a quickening current moving right behind obscuring boulders. Two quick twists later, you are suddenly looking off an apparent cliff with the current moving you left. Resist the current and stay far right, trying for a “hump” in the center of the ledge, and you may experience a half second of free fall before disappearing, boat and all, into the froth at the bottom. This is worth, to some of us, all the tension of the approach.

The second pool at the bottom of Sock’em Dog is quite long, and any gear lost above usually can be picked up here.

The last excitement rapid left is Shoulder Bone, which is around the curve at the end of the pool. Run this one slowly in the left center, and you’ll have no trouble. The last rapid to the lake are good but anticlimactic after the razor’s edge upstream. Below Shoulder Bone Branch, the lake begins, and a slow 2-mile paddle brings you to the take out on the South Carolina side.

CLAUDE TERRY’S CHATTOOGA RIVER SAFETY RULES

On the Chattooga, I have seen canoeists lose their boats. I have seen rafts punctured and lost or dragged to the side; the rafters walked out after dark. I have seen kayaks broken in half. I have heard of drownings on the river. In essentially all cases, the canoeists and kayakers were breaking safety rules, and the rafters walked out due to being in a single raft. So please, for your own sake, read this set of rules now and re-read them before launching any trip on the Chattooga.

  • Rule: Don’t boat alone or take a single boat with two people. Three canoes or kayaks or two rafts are a minimum for the Chattooga.
  • Rule: Allow for heavy water. Canoe with one person or, at the most, two persons per canoe. You will take on less water in the waves, and maneuvering is greatly simplified. When rafting, put two people in a four-man raft, three or four people in a six-man raft. The wear on the raft will be reduced, hang-ups will be cut down, and spills will be less frequent.
  • Rule: Kayaks should have flotation bats in good condition. Canoes will survive better with added flotation in the form of Styrofoam or inflated inner tubes.
  • Rule: Expert whitewater boaters increasingly urge that life jackets and helmets be worn by open canoeists and rafters when running big rapids. These items are already standard equipment with decked boaters who have more difficulty getting out of their craft while upside down. I personally dislike sun tans distinguished by a “horse collar’ of white but after having helmets damaged and sustaining a “saber scar” on my nose while upside down, I believe totally in protective headgear and flotation vests.
  • Rule: All boaters should be good swimmers and not psychologically hung up about water.
  • Rule: Allow enough time. The section of the Chattooga described in the accompanying story is a four to six hour run in a canoe or kayak. If a raft, it will take longer. Don’t try to finish a raft run after dark. Sleeping on the river is a bad scene, but going over a dangerous falls in the dark is worse.
  • Rule: Check water levels before getting on the river.
  • Rule: Honor and personal esteem still matter more than legalities to many local residents. Don’t make the mistake of incurring their displeasure by trying to correct their beliefs or apparent foibles.

Hudson River Canoeing Guide

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

By SUZANNE WELANDER

hudsonrgb400.jpgCalm waters of Section II. Most of the Class I and II rapids are located downstream of GA 106; then the waters calm until reaching the last shoal right before the river’s junction with the Middle Fork Broad.

The Hudson River, the prettiest of the Broad River tributaries, is born in western Banks County, north of Athens. In contrast with the Broad River, its course is narrow and srlsidebarrgb240.jpgintimate. The scenery remains pleasing despite the growth of houses near the stream. In the upper section, passage can be difficult due to the river’s small channel and numerous deadfalls. As the Hudson nears the confluence with the Middle Fork Broad River (forming the Broad River), rapids increase, making for a pretty and enjoyable paddling experience.

TRIP SUMMARY: The Hudson is a tributary of the Broad River, which is a part of the Savannah River watershed. This is a canoe trip on the Hudson in two sections that can both be divided to shorter paddles. SECTION I: GA 59 to GA 106. Class, I; Length, 13.1 miles; Time, 8 hours; Level, unknown; Gradient, 3 feet per mile; Scenery, B-. SECTION II: GA 106 to the Broad River. Class, I-II; Length, 13.1 miles; Time, 7 hours; Gauge, none; Level, unknown; Gradient, 8 feet per mile; Scenery, A-. VIEW MAP.

SECTION I

DESCRIPTION: Cruising does not become sensible until the Hudson crosses GA 106 (E), but for those paddlers who desire an athletic experience portaging over, under and around many deadfalls, it is possible to put in at GA 59. Below this point the Hudson is quite narrow and shallow, and deadfalls blocking the stream are frequent. If rainfall has been adequate for paddling, this section can provide a scenic tour for the adventurous, who exercise the caution required to avoid deadfalls in the stream. When scouting the river level, be aware that the black-sand riverbed will create the illusion of a deeper channel. At low water levels, polling, prodding, and pulling may be required to move the boat downstream.

SHUTTLE: From Commerce, take GA 98 east to Ila. Turn left onto GA 174, then left onto GA 106. The take-out is on GA 106 north of Fort Lamar. To reach the put-in, continue north on GA 106 and turn left onto Bold Springs Road. Bold Springs will merge with GA 326; continue west onto CR 418 as GA 326 turns to the south. At GA 59, turn left and proceed to the put-in at the bridge. Intermediate bridges are accessible from Bold Springs Road at GA 326, Hebron Road, and Wrights Mill Road.

GAUGE: There is no gauge, but the local outfitter can relay information on the river levels in the area.

SECTION II

DESCRIPTION: Still beautiful and intimate below GA 106(E), the Hudson changes its character and becomes more lively. Many rippling shoals keep the boater entertained, but none of the shoals is a problem to navigate. Most of the Class I-II rapids are located downstream of GA 106; then the waters calm until reaching the last shoal right before the river’s junction with the Middle Fork Broad. Though some cartographers disagree, the locals consider this point to be the beginning of the Broad River, and they apparently control the signage in the area.

A pleasant 13.1-mile trip can be had by putting in at GA 106, paddling to the confluence, and taking out 5.7 miles farther downstream on river right, immediately below the GA 281 bridge. This take-out is owned by the local outfitter; make appropriate arrangements to use it. The mid-run take-out at US 29 involves a steep scramble up to the road via steps cut into the dirt, and is consequently easier to use as a starting point for a trip.

SHUTTLE: The take-out is at the Broad River’s intersection with GA 281, northeast of Danielsville. To reach the put-in from the take-out, take GA 281 south toward Danielsville. Turn right onto Old Wildcat Bridge Road, then left onto US 29. (A right turn on US 29 will lead to the mid-run access point). Turn right onto Jones Chapel – Shiloh Road, which turns into Lamar Road after passing through Shiloh. Turn left onto Shiloh-Fort Lamar Road, then take a right onto GA 106. The bridge is ahead.

GAUGE: There is no gauge. The local outfitter can provide an opinion on current levels over the phone. Alternatively, visually scout access points if there’s been adequate rainfall.

MAPS: USGS maps: Homer, Ashland, Ila, Danielsville North. County maps: Banks, Franklin, Madison.

Links:

A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides canoebookcoverrgb400.jpgto over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website.  

Ebenezer Creek Canoeing Guide

Monday, June 8th, 2009

By SUZANNE WELANDER

ebenezerpaddlersrgb400.jpgKayakers on this blackwater stream pass ancient cypress trees, some believed to be over 1,000 years old. Ebenezer Creek has a rich recorded history that incudes the American Revolution and the Civil War.

A black water tributary of the lower Savannah River, Ebenezer Creek boasts a rich history cast within a distinctly rare natural environment. This 13-mile run passes through ancient dwarf cypress and tupelo forests drowned in small shallow lakes that shelter a wide variety of bird and animal species. The sanctuary that the creek has historically provided is now reciprocated by the state of Georgia: it is one of only four waterways designed as a Georgia Scenic River and is a National Natural Landmark.

srlsidebarrgb240.jpgTRIP SUMMARY: This is a canoeing guide to 13.5-mile paddle on Ebenezer Creek in the Savannah River watershed.  Class, smooth; Length, 13.5 miles; Time, 7 hours; Level, unknown; Gradient, less than 2 foot per mile; Scenery, A-, B+. VIEW MAP

DESCRIPTION: When the water is high, trips can begin at the uppermost access just outside Springfield at Run’s Creek. From there, less than a mile of paddling will bring you to Ebenezer Landing, potentially the site of the first settlement by the German Salzburgers in 1733. In Georgia, the Salzburgers found freedom to live according to their religious beliefs. Settling at the creek at the direction of Governor Oglethorpe, the Salzburgers befriended the Creek Indians of the area, but found that the swamp environment didn’t agree with them. After two years of disease and struggle, they migrated down the creek to found New Ebenezer on higher ground at the confluence. The community thrived until the Revolutionary War, when it was mostly destroyed. The church, however, survived, and is the oldest public building standing in Georgia. Some visitors still see, in the bricks of the church, the fingerprints of the women and children who helpled build it.

Nearly100 years later, the creek was the site of a less-well-known documented tragic incident during the Civil War when hundreds (or thousands) of freed slaves became caught between opposing armies. Seeking protection from Union General Jefferson C. Davis, the refugees trailed his army to the creek; the army took the flooded creek as an opportunity to strand the refugees on the opposite shore. Panic rose as the Confederate Calvary closed in from the other direction, and countless refugees drowned or were killed as they tried to flee.

Today, the paddle down the creek is a profoundly peaceful one. Periodic high water flows of the Savannah River (modulated now, due to the influence of upstream dams) force water to flood in the creek, creating shallow lakes. The resulting ecosystem has been referred to as one of the best examples of backwater swamp in the state. The elongated lakes provide habitat for an unusual forest of virgin dwarfed bald cypress, located 0.5 mile above Long Bridge Road. Huge foundations support the comparatively small trunks of these trees, some estimated to be in excess of 1,000 years old. The swamp’s low nutrient levels, partly responsible for this dwarfing, have facilitated the invasion of non-native plant species that threaten the natural diversity of the creek’s native flora. One of the most scenic portions of the creek lies near its mouth, where a forest of swamp tupelos tower above the reflective blackwater. Their regular pattern and lack of intervening vegetation inspire comparisons to a temple or cathedral.

A wide variety of animals thrive within the creek’s shelter, including elusive alligators. Birds flock to the area, making bird watching a major attraction for paddlers. The creek’s waters provide spawning grounds for spotted bass.

The creek passes intermittently along flooded swamps and between banks. When the water is high, the creek flows out of its banks to thread through the swampland forest. You can too, but take care not to get lost, particularly below Long Bridge Road. Even in high water the current is imperceptibly slow. Dry landings are rare in the 3 miles below the Tommy Long boat ramp and at other spots when the water is up. The creek’s path is obvious when the water is low; exposed strainers are present, but don’t present a problem.

SHUTTLE: From Savannah go north on I-95, Exit 109 for GA 21 north, to a right-hand turn at GA 275. The boat ramp is at the end of the road. To get to the usual put-in, take GA 275 west to a right turn onto Long Bridge Road and continue to the creek. A bike trail can be used for a canoe-bicycle loop. Historical sites, including the church and a museum, are located at the confluence in New Ebenezer.

GAUGE: Consult the USG website for Ebenezer at Springfield. The creek is runable all year. Higher levels make side exploration of the swamps and sloughs possible.

MAPS: USGS maps: Hardeeville Northwest (GA/SC), Rincon (GA/SC), Springfield South

LINKS:

A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides canoebookcoverrgb400.jpgto over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website

Little Satilla River Canoeing Guide

Monday, June 1st, 2009

canoeing2rgb400.jpgThe Little Satilla produces an isolated wilderness paddling experience a result of passing through miles of undeveloped state-owned land.

Thick, luxurious swamp forest of swamp black gum, sweet bay, pine, and cypress confine this brownish-red stream as it winds an intricate southeastwardly path to the main Satilla. Unlike its larger namesake, which displays massive white-sand bars at low water, the Little Satilla charms by displaying the same scenery on a more intimate scale – making it ideal for paddle craft and little else. Over 10 miles of river pass through state-owned lands, resulting in an isolated wilderness paddling experience. Small bluffs grace the streamside from time to time and provide good high-water camping areas. Unlike the main Satilla, sandbars are comparatively rare.

srlsidebarrgb240.jpgSUMMARY: This is a canoeing guide to a 37-mile trip on the Little Satilla River in the Satilla Watershed that can be divided into shorter trips by using alternate put-in and take-out points. Class, smooth; Length, 37 miles; Time, 3 days; Level, N/A; Gradient, less than 1 foot per mile; Scenery, B+. VIEW SATILLA WATERSHED MAP

DESCRIPTION: Runnable downstream form the US 84 bridge, except in the typically dry season from later summer into fall, the Little Satilla averages 45 to 75 feet in width with a slow to moderate current. Its banks are 2-7 feet high and are composed of an off-white sandy clay. Throughout its runnable length the stream is shaded and the banks buffered with a thick undergrowth. Wildlife, especially birds, abounds and is easily observed by the quiet paddler. Generally remote and pristine, the river corridor is nevertheless occasionally penetrated by agricultural development.

There are no rapids on the Little Satilla, with occasional deadfalls being the only hazard to navigation. Areas of special interest include the Little Satilla Wildlife Management Area, which spans both sides of 10.3 miles of the stream between the US 84 and GA 32 bridge crossings. Check hunting season schedules online at www.gadnr.org if you plan on camping here; an off-season float will afford more peace, privacy and safety.

Access is good and trips on the Little Satilla can be extended beyond its mouth onto the Satilla River. Just plan on making that a multiple-day camping trip since the next closest public access after passing US 301 on the Little Satilla requires 15.6 miles of paddling (7.3 to the Satilla, and another 8.3 miles to the Warner Landing boat ramp.)

SHUTTLE: From Nahunta, take US 301 north to the river for the last take-out on the Little Satilla. To reach the next upstream access point at Humpback Road, use Trudie Road south of the river. The next two highest access points are reached by taking 301 north to GA 32 west; there is access as the highway crosses the river (southeast corner), and a DNR boat ramp upstream of GA 32 is reached by turning right onto Zirkle Road after crossing the river. The highest access is on US 84/GA 38, which is most easily reached by continuing west on GA 32 into Patterson and turning right. Access is on the right side of the road after crossing the river.

GAUGE: There is no gauge. For additional information, call the Waycross Fisheries Office at 912-285-6094.

MAPS: USGS Maps: Screven, Patterson Southeast. County Maps: Pierce, Appling, Wayne, Brantley

Links

A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides canoebookcoverrgb400.jpgto over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website

Alabaha River Canoeing Guide

Monday, June 1st, 2009

canoeing4rgb400.jpgThe Alabaha River, a stream in the Satilla watershed, passes through a wooded swamp corridor draped with Spanish moss and bordered by palmetto stands.

Black water reflects a mesmerizing mirror of the gum cypress-dominated floodplain of the Alabaha. Flowing with slow to moderate current, this diminutive stream passes through a wooded swamp corridor draped with Spanish moss and bordered by palmetto stands occasionally penetrated by pine forests and agricultural development. Banks of 2-8 feet in height hold the river underneath a thick canopy of trees as it slides through Bacon and Pierce counties before emptying into the Satilla River east of Waycross.

srlsidebarrgb240.jpgTRIP SUMMARY: This is a canoeing guide to a 16.1 mile trip on the Alabaha river in the Satilla Watershed that can be divided into shorter trips by using alternative put-in and take-out points, or extended by adding segments on the Satilla River shown on the accompanying map and in another post on Satilla River Canoeing. Class, smooth and tidal; Length, 16.1 miles; Time, 1-2 days; Level, N/A; Gradient, less than 2 feet per mile; Scenery, B+. VIEW SATILLA WATERSHED MAP

DESCRIPTION: Runnable below the GA 15 Bridge except in the late summer and fall, the Alabaha is similar to the Satilla in flora, wildlife and topography but is far smaller and less convoluted in its course. Its small size lends an air of privacy and increases the probability of deadfall encounters, the only hazard to navigation. Access is good, and extended trips onto the Satilla are possible after reaching the mouth of the Alabaha.

SHUTTLE: The last take-out for the Alabaha is located downstream of the confluence on the Satilla. To get there from Blackshear, go east on US 84/GA38. Take the first right immediately after crossing the Alabaha; follow this road to Old River Road and turn right. Continue straight onto the dirt road when the pavement takes a 90-degree turn to the right (turning into Voight Bridge Road). Continue straight for 5.2 miles until reaching Circle Drive on the right. Follow Circle Drive to Turkey Ridge Road (CR 312) and the Future Farmers of America (FFA) boat ramp. Intermediate access is available at Voight Bridge Road, the boat ramp just downstream at US 84 (southeast corner of the bridge), and at the southeast corner of the GA 15 bridge.

GAUGE: There is none. Call the Waycross Fisheries Office at 912-285-6094 for more information.

MAPS: USGS Maps: Blackshear East. County Maps: Pierce County.

Links

A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides canoebookcoverrgb400.jpgto over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website.