Chattahoochee River Paddling Guide
By SUZANNE WELANDER
The Chattahoochee River, with its headwaters in the Blue Ridge Mountains 200 feet from the Appalachian Trail, flows 430 miles through Georgia. This paddling guide covers 253 of those miles from Low Gap in Northeast Georgia to Lake Seminole in the southwest corner of the state.
“The lore of the South could not survive without rivers any better than the human body could survive without blood,” writes Marc Reisner in Cadillac Desert. Every river has its stories, and the Chattahoochee’s could fill volumes. It is Georgia’s longest river and the only one spanning all three of its geological regions. Sparkling headwaters fall from the mountains, are temporarily stilled in Lake Lanier, emerge to lope across the Piedmont hills and through Atlanta, and upon reaching Columbus, turn south to spill through successive dams throughout the Coastal Plain, rarely flowing freely. Millions depend on the river - Atlanta and Columbus drink it - yet the river’s waters are polluted from human contact, particularly in and downstream of Atlanta. As Atlanta modernizes its sewer system and Columbus talks of freeing the drowned Coweta Falls, the final chapter has yet to be written.
A paddling guide to the Chattahoochee River in five sections, the last four of which may be divided into shorter segments.
SECTION I: Low Gap Creek to GA Hwy 75 above Robertstown (the Upper Chattahoochee) 4.2 miles.
SECTION II: Robertstown to Lake Lanier (Upper Hooch) 32.3. miles
SECTION III: Buford Dam to Sweetwater Creek (Metro Hooch) 56.2 miles
SECTION IV: Sweetwater Creek to Columbus 59.5 miles
SECTION V: Columbus to Lake Seminole 93.1 miles.
A list of topographical and county maps is included at the end of the guide.
SECTION I: LOW GAP CREEK TO GA HWY 75 ABOVE ROBERTSTOWN
SUMMARY: Class: III-IV; Length: 4.2 miles; Time: 3-to-4 hours; Gauge: none; Level: NA; Gradient: 57 feet per mile, 2 miles at 85 feet per mile; Scenery: A. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: The river is extremely small in this section, but
the scenery and gradient combine to make a run that borders on
spectacular - on the rare occasion of the right water level. The
river drops extremely fast through a rocky and deadfall-ridden
constricted channel bordered by hemlock, mountain laurel, and
rhododendron. There are many sections barely wide enough for a
boat to pass through and occasional blind turns and drops with
little margin for error. Scout as much of the river as possible from
the road before putting in, and scout all major drops while on
the water. This seldom-traveled run is for expert boaters only.
The recommended put-in is where the Chattahoochee River
Road (FS 52) crosses Low Gap Creek, which is sizeable enough
to provide passage to the river when it’s running. Either carry
down the path along the left side of the creek or run the creek
down to its confluence with the Chattahoochee. Shortly downstream, the access road rejoins the river. There are multiple
opportunities to access the river or to camp in the remaining
miles down to the valley. The river is mostly Class II-III below
Low Gap Creek and is less choked by trees than in the sections
above. The uppermost access is on FS 44, but putting in here is
problematic. The wooded upper section often forces boaters to
return upstream rather than allowing them to continue down
stream. If it is clear, there are four rapids in the first 2 miles of
this section that approach the limits of navigability. Portage here
is harrowing, involving slick, steep rocks and rhododendron
thickets. Another option is to put-in between the highest access
point and Low Gap Creek by parking near the gated Forest Service road you encounter on FS 52 after crossing Jasus Creek and
sliding down the ridge to the river (bearing north to the river
instead of south into the gully). Putting in here adds 1.4 miles of
Class II-III water to the run.
SHUTTLE: From Helen, the take-out is north of town on GA 75 before the highway veers away from the river at Spoilcane Creek. To get to the put-in, take GA 75 back toward Helen. Before town, turn right onto GA 75 (Alt.) and take the immediate right onto Chattahoochee River Road on the other side of the river. Follow this road until reaching the Forest Service campground at Low Gap Creek.
GAUGE: There is no gauge for this section. Flow flushes through quickly and the lower river must be near or approaching flood stage in order to find sufficient flow at the headwaters. Scout the level from the road to determine feasibility.
SECTION II: ROBERTSTOWN TO LAKE LANIER (UPPER HOOCH)
SUMMARY: Class: I-II with some III; Length: 32.3 miles; Time: up to 3 days; Gauge: web; Level: 800 cfs; Gradient: 14 feet per mile; Scenery: A-B. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Upon reaching the valley floor, the river calms
into steady Class I riffles and remains that way through
Alpinized Helen. Other than boisterous summer tubing traffic,
there are no immediate obstacles except for one low wooden
bridge near Robertstown that may present problems at higher
levels. Chattahoochee Street in Helen is the last opportunity
to take-out before encountering a dam that cannot be portaged
at Nora Mill in Nacoochee.
Below the mill, the river takes a significant bend and passes beneath GA 75 twice. After the second crossing, the river flows adjacent to the Nacoochee American Indian Mound. River access is possible at this second crossing on the southeast corner of the bridge, though traffic on the road is fast and heavy, especially on weekends. The Nacoochee Valley offers a pleasant, pastoral float mostly through open farmland with some wooded areas. There are often downed trees, however, that can cause problems. The state has recently purchased the Nacoochee mound and definitely does not allow public digging for artifacts. Please respect these Native American ancestral lands.
From the Sautee Creek junction down to GA 255 lies one of the longest undisturbed stretches of the river. The terrain is heavily forested, with large white pines and frequent rock out-croppings. Evidence of human intrusion is less obvious than ear lier, and a pleasant illusion of isolation settles in. This is a good section for camping. Rapids are fairly frequent but never go beyond a mild Class II category. River access is available at the GA 17 bridge over Sautee Creek, and is best on the bridge’s southwest corner. It is a short float to the main stream of the Chattahoochee; be ready to portage around downed trees, which can easily span the creek.
Rapids become more challenging below GA 255. This segment begins with several Class I rapids and smooth pools. Then the river enters a long, slow area nicknamed the Dead Sea because its stillness offers a marked contrast to the rapids above and below. Large trees on either side form a cool green tunnel of vegetation that occasionally opens into rolling pastured vistas.
The Dead Sea is the first warning sign that Smith Island rapid is near; the next indicator is a large, gently sloping granite face on the right. This rapid should be scouted by first timers or by any one running the river at extreme water levels. Do not scout from the Island, which is private. The left side of the island is the best route. It is a Class II rapid at almost any water level, and at high water it becomes a solid Class III. Enter the rapid from the left side of the main stream at the top of the island, then gradually work back to the right side (left bank of the island) for the final plunging chute. This chute ends in a fairly deep pool next to a large rock face. Recover on the island if necessary.
Whitewater buffs will find the 4 miles starting at the GA 115 bridge the Chattahoochee’s most exciting. Rapids are frequent, lengthy, and challenging enough to keep paddlers occupied. The entrance to Buck Shoals, the first rapid of note, is marked by an island not far from the put-in. One-quarter mile of fairly continuous Class II water awaits. Buck Shoals has eaten experienced decked boaters at extremely high water levels, when waves may exceed 4 feet in height. At low-to-average water levels, one encounters a more technical run. The next named rapid is Three Ledges. A large granite outcropping on the right indicates the imminence of this drop. Many consider this to be the most fun or challenging series of rapids of this section. The traditional route is to run just to the left of the flat protruding rock at the first ledge, moving to the center for the second and third ledges. The hole at the base of this rapid is a great place to play. The next long pool, with granite outcroppings on the right, denotes the approach to Horseshoe Rapid (Class II+). A long, low ledge of rocks forces the river to hook around them, thus giving Horseshoe its name. Enter on the left, and be ready to cut hard back to the right. Just below Horseshoe the Soque River enters, followed shortly by a small creek falls; the Duncan Bridge Road take-out is ahead.
The 9-mile section below Duncan Bridge Road offers a few Class I-II rapids similar in character to those above the bridge; and the scenery remains quite good. This section encompasses the entry of Mossy Creek on river right - a potential steep creek run into the Chattahoochee. The state owns a parcel of land at the mouth of the creek. Some good play spots are found in the last mile above Mud Creek at high levels. Paddling up Mud Creek to the bridge is the best takeout before the current stops in the backwaters of Lake Lanier. Once in the backwaters, forward progress is hard work.
SHUTTLE: The take-out for the GA 115 to Duncan Bridge run is reached by going north on 1-985, which turns into GA 365, turning left onto GA 384, Duncan Bridge Road, and following it to the far side of the river before turning right into the outfitters parking lot. There is a small fee for parking here: paddlers typically use the shuttle service to GA 115 since the deluxe put-in at the bridge is on land owned by the outfitter. There is no public parking there. The GA 255 access is on the river-left, or Habersham County, side of the river only. Do not disturb the property owner on the river-right side. Parking here and upstream at the Sautee Creek put-in is tight; shuttle service is available to these points.
GAUGE: There is a gauge in the river 100-200 yards upstream of the GA 115 Bridge. It is affixed to an old bridge piling located upstream of a small shoal on river left. Using this gauge, the recommended levels for this section are a scrapey minimum of 0.8 and a maximum of 6.0. The river has been run at levels higher than 6 feet by expert boaters. Levels are also easily acquired on line from the USGS Web site by referencing the gauge near Cornelia. The gauge is located at Duncan Bridge Road, below the confluence with the Soque River; readings may not correlate with flows originating from the upper sections of the Chattahoochee. Keeping this in mind, the minimum for this section is 800-900 cfs. The local outfitter can provide information on levels over the phone.
SECTION III: BUFORD DAM TO SWEETWATER CREEK (METRO HOOCH)
SUMMARY: Class: I-II; Length: 56.2 miles; Time: up to 6 days; Gauge: web; Level: 900 cfs; Gradient: less 3 feet per mile, with some 11 feet per mile rapids; Scenery: B-D. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: The Chattahoochee through the Piedmont
from Buford Dam to Franklin (industrial Atlanta excepted), is
pleasant paddling. Modest bluffs and some exposed rock combine with a young forest dominated by pignut hickory, river
birch, tulip poplar, sassafras, water oak, black walnut, box elder,
and loblolly pine that approaches and retreats from the river’s
edge. Undergrowth consists of honeysuckle, various asters,
Christmas fern, trumpet creeper, and river cane. Throughout
metropolitan Atlanta, the Chattahoochee National Recreation
Area protects a patchwork of nearly 10,000 acres of metropolitan
riverside land.
Starting at the public park below Buford Dam, the river flows between clay banks of 6-10 feet as it winds through the Piedmont en route to Atlanta. Tree-lined and pleasant, the river averages 120 feet in width and flows with a moderate current. Water is clear with a greenish cast in this stretch during most of the year. Small ripples and occasional tiny shoals keep the paddling interesting.
Two miles below GA 141 at Medlock Bridge Road are the backwaters of Morgan Falls Dam. Though the water is slack for the next 16 miles, from this point to the dam, passage through this wealthy suburban residential area is nonetheless interesting because some of Atlanta’s finest residential architecture is nestled among the hills and bluffs that border the river. Downstream of the Morgan Falls Dam the parade of homes continues for about 4 more miles.
The short and popular whitewater section known as the ”Metro Hooch” begins at the Powers Island put-in above 1-285. Half a mile below the 1-285 crossing, two stairstep shoals of low Class II difficulty keep paddlers awake. With the exception of the apartment complexes found by the floodplain at the beginning of this run, the scenery offers a refreshing and surprising respite from the nearby asphalt and engines. Rocky bluffs and dense forest rise from the river, creating a natural oasis that recalls the river’s native roots. Shoals arrive at equal intervals throughout the run. The last bend introduces first the sounds, then the sights of the city as the 1-75 bridge comes into view. The common take-out for this section at the Paces Mill Recreation Area arrives quickly after passing beneath the bridge.
Continuing downstream, small shoals persist until 1.5 miles below Paces Ferry Road, where there are two partial dams. Both can be run without danger. A clear downstream V marks the route through the first, while the second should be run on the far right. Just upstream of Nancy Creek’s entry on the left is a park and play spot known as the Wave. Access this spot via Atlanta Road, paddling upstream from the Nancy Creek confluence.
Water quality worsens as the river progresses through Atlanta. Below the Wave, the Chattahoochee is bordered by sewage treatment facilities and a congested industrial corridor complete with factories, junkyards, and freight yards. Of all sections, this is the most abused, and it smells of it.
SHUTTLE: The Metro Hooch segment is nestled between a web of roads and interstates that offer easy access no matter which direction you come from. The take-out is at the West Palisades/Paces Mill Recreation Area located on US 41 south of I-285 on the north side of the river. To get to the put-in from there, take US 41 north and turn right at Cumberland Boulevard. Cross over 1-75 and turn right onto Akers Mill Road. Turn left at the first opportunity to cross under 1-285, and then take an immediate right onto the access road on the other side. The entrance to the Cochran Shoals/Powers Island Recreation Area is on the left after crossing the river. Put-in at the small channel between the island and the shore, or at the larger main channel.
GAUGE: Flows on this section are controlled by releases from Buford Dam. Using the USGS gauge for the Chattahoochee at Atlanta, 1,500 cfs makes the rapids in the Metro Hooch section interesting; from 2500-5000 cfs, they are partially to completely washed out. The minimum is 850 cfs. Higher flows carry more pollution: be sure you have the skills necessary to avoid a swim or roll.
SECTION IV: SWEETWATER CREEK TO COLUMBUS
SUMMARY: Class: I with some III; Length: 59.5 miles; Time: up to 6 days; Gauge: web; Level: unknown; Gradient: less than 2 feet per mile; Scenery: B-. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Downstream of Atlanta, agricultural tableland and forest alternately cradle the stream. The river’s course tends toward long, straight sections followed by broad, looping bends. Shoals are intermittent and usually consist of small ledges that are straightforward and rarely exceed Class 1+ in difficulty. An exception is Bush Head Shoals, a legitimate Class II section about 3 miles upstream of Franklin in Heard County. The best route here is to the right around the large island at the top of the shoals, moving to the middle of the stream at the downstream base of the island to run the lower shoals. Daniel Shoals, farther downstream, is borderline Class II and should present no difficulty. Below Daniel Shoals are the city of Franklin and West Point Lake.
Released at West Point Dam, the Chattahoochee moves from one impoundment to another all the way to Columbus, where four dams within a 3-mile section of river provide a disappointing finale for this dam and power plant infested section of the Chattahoochee. Slack water, dull scenery, and an abundance of portages combine to make a paddle trip suitable only for bad dreams. Between Franklin and Columbus (where the river passes from dam to dam) the riverbanks diminish in height marking the river’s transition from the Piedmont to the Coastal Plain.
In downtown Columbus below the 13th Street Bridge, a
Class II-III shoal downstream of the Eagle and Phenix Dam
forms a park-and-play spot. When there is water flowing over
the dam, sizable surfing waves, holes, and wave trains are to be
found. The dam has been purchased by a private party with
intention of breaching it (in addition to the next dam
upstream), liberating Coweta Falls from where it sits beneath
the pool. Photo: The Eagle and Phenix Dam on the Chattahoochee in downtown Columbus. The dam was built in 1868 to power then now defunct Eagle and Phenix textile mill. The dam is located just south of the 13th Street Bridge which connects Columbus to Phinix City, Alabama. The dam produces a 45-acre portion of the river reservoir that extends approximately 1 mile upstream. The dam is now owned by the City of Columbus, and environmental studies are underway to breach the dam, along with City Mills Dam to create an urban whitewater paddling zone along the river.
SHUTTLE: To reach the highest access point for this section at Sweetwater Creek, take Exit 44 from 1-20 west of Atlanta, turn ing south onto GA 6. Continue to a right-hand turn onto Riverside Parkway; access is ahead at the bridge over the creek. Lower access points are most easily reached from GA 166, GA 5, or US 27.
GAUGE: The section above West Point Lake is runnable if Buford Dam is releasing water. The online USGS gauge for the Columbus park-and-play spot is at US 280; levels, controlled by Bartlett’s Ferry Dam, vary throughout most days. Minimum and maximum levels on this gauge are unknown; check feasibility visually if you live in the area. The LaGrange Fisheries Office at (706) 845-4180 can provide additional information on floating or fishing this section.
SECTION V: COLUMBUS TO LAKE SEMINOLE
SUMMARY: Class: I; Length: 93.1 miles; Time: up to 2 weeks; Gauge: web; Level: NA; Gradient: less than 1 foot per mile; Scenery: C. VIEW INTERACTIVE MAP
DESCRIPTION: Flowing south from Columbus in Muscogee
County, the Chattahoochee River is impounded frequently as it
winds through a farming plateau sprinkled with industry. Its
banks average 4-8 feet high and are tree-lined. Towboats and
other industrial traffic move up and down the 300-foot-wide
stream. From Columbus the Chattahoochee moves down to the
Walter F. George Reservoir and from there to Lake Seminole,
where it meets the Flint to form the Apalachicola River. The level
of difficulty from Columbus to Lake Seminole is Class I; power
boat traffic is the primary hazard to navigation.
SHUTTLE: See map. GA 39 parallels the east side of the upper portion of the river in this section; most access points are easily reached from it. Below Blakely, use GA 62, GA 370, US 84, and GA 9 I in addition to GA 39.
GAUGE: Runnable all year. For more information, call the Albany Fisheries Office at (229) 430-4256.
MAPS: Jacks Gap, Cowrock, Helen, Leaf, Clarkesville, Lula, Buford Dam, Suwannee, Duluth, Norcross, Chamblee, Roswell, Mountain Park, Sandy Springs, Northwest Atlanta, Mableton, Ben Hill, Campbellton, Palmetto, Rico, Newnan North, Whitesburg, Lowell, Franklin, Hill Crest, Columbus, Fort Mitchell, Fort Benning, Union, Omaha, Twin Springs, George- town, Eufaula North, Eufaula South, Ft. Gaines Northeast, Ft. Gaines Northwest, Ft. Gaines, Columbia Northeast, Columbia, Gordon, Saffold, Bascom, Steam Mill, Fairchild, Sneads (USGS); White, Habersham, Hall, Forsyth, Gwinnett, Fulton, Cobb, Douglas, Carroll, Coweta, Heard, Muscogee, Chattahoochee, Stewart, Clay, Early, Seminole (County)
Links:
- Read more about the Chattahoochee River.
- Download a 4-color poster of the Chattahoochee River watershed, including all of its tributaries.
- View a map showing all the dams on the Chattahoochee.
- Fred Brown, co-author of The Riverkeeper’s Guide to the Chattahoochee writes about his experience on the Chattahoochee and provides a self-guided driving tour for discovering the Chattahoochee. Read Fred’s essay.
- Joe Cook, co-author of River Song: A Journey Down the Chattahoochee and Apalachicola Rivers, writes about his favorite section of the Chattahoochee. Read Joe’s essay.
A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia is a compilation of paddling guides
to over 80 Georgia streams and rivers, plus the Okefenokee Swamp and Georgia Coast, published by Menasha Ridge Press since 1982. Originally written by Bob Sehlinger and Don Otey, it has been extensively revised and updated by Suzanne Welander. Organized efficiently by watersheds, the book contains a wealth of interesting and useful information about Georgia physiography and paddling, in general, as well as the authoritative paddling guides. To purchase a copy of A Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, a book every paddler of Georgia streams should have in their library (and boat), and to see over 75 other outdoor guides published by Menasha, visit the Menasha Ridge Press website.